Sunday, May 20, 2007

The One in Crocodile Dundee's Back Yard

We had barely got over our last trip, and we were back on the road to the Outback. This time we were going with Wilderness 4WD Adventures, and were heading into the unknown of Kakadu.

This is where Crocodile Dundee was filmed and on the way we got to meet one of it's stars - Charlie the Buffalo. i did the hand thing on him but he wasn't having any of it. I obviously don't have Mick Dundee's style.

As soon as we enter the park, we head for our first swim of the day in a water hole. It's beautiful with a waterfall at one end. The difference here, is that every pool comes with a crocodile warning. It's a real threat here, and lots of people have been eaten here.

It is for this reason that I always waited for our guide to go in the water first! Swimming in fresh waterholes is fabulous - and something I'd never even consider at home.


Our second swim of the day was at Gunlom. We did a walk up a steep hill, which gave us amazing views over the whole of Kakadu. It is so green here (especially as we have come at the end of the wet season), and the water holes are full, and the waterfalls in full force. A beautiful time of the year to come here.

We had our second swim at the top of the Gunlom waterfall, and sat at the top of the waterfall overlooking the park. It felt as though we were on the edge of the world! (There is a pool below us, not the massive plunge!) Then it was back down to the bottom pool - full of fish, including the Archer Fish which spit their insect prey off the branches!

With several swims under our belt, we went to watch the sun set. Nothing quite like sitting on the top a 4 by 4 melon in one hand, cold beer in the other, and watching the sun set!

On the way back to camp i had my first encounter with a snake. An Olive Python, which we unfortunately saw too late and ran over! Still, it was my first encounter of a snake in the wild!

That evening we joined two other groups round a camp fire, and tried to play the didg... it's a lot harder than it looks. The stars were out as we lay down in our swags in the open air. Bliss.

Day two and I was awoken early by a little rain, but it was time to get up anyway.

We had a culture camp this morning, and as we drove along the roads we could see a group of brumbies galloping through the mist, their manes blowing in the wind. A sight I will never forget!

At culture camp there were 3 "classes" - we could learn to play a didgeridoo, throw a spear, and weave.

I finally managed to get a noise out of the didg, although every time H came to film me I couldn't do it for very long!

The spear throwing was fun. It rests in another piece of wood and you aim it a bit like a javelin. We were aiming at cardboard cutouts of animals. I managed to hit a duck a couple of times but not spear it so I'm glad I can buy my meat in Cole's or else I'd go very hungry!

The weaving was also good. We were using strands of Pandenis Spiralis which had been dyed with natural colourants. We made bracelets.

While sitting on the floor, I saw an ant on me with a big green bottom. The aboriginals would boil a nest of these to make a tangy tea, or eat them. So after 5 minutes trying to catch the scoundrel, I clasped it gently and licked his bottom. It was very tangy like Lime. I let him go and watched him stagger off. I wonder what tales he will tell his friends of the giant who looked his bum!

Today was our culture day, and we spent the afternoon at Anbangbang gallery looking at the Aboriginal Rock Art. It's in amazing condition, and you can tell which period it was done in according to the designs.

Later that afternoon, we went to the cultural centre to watch a dvd about the wet season i n Kakadu. A combination of the dark and the air con sent nearly all our party to sleep. I managed to stay awake - just, - as it was a fascinating documentary!

Finally we headed up to Ubirr. Johnny the Aboriginal guide from this morning joined us and told us the stories behind the rock art here, and also pointed out a couple of rock wallabies. Ubirr is where Croc Dundee goes to make his "phone call", and we sat here to watch the sun set over the wet lands. Words just can't describe it.


Day 3 and we're up before the sun and heading for a walk at a place called "The Castle". Walk is a bit misleading, as it involved hands and knees scrambles and climbing, and eventually brought us out on top of some rocks overlooking Kakadu. The only sounds were the birds and the hum of the dragonflies which were the size of your fist. The early morning sun beat down, and all you could see were trees and rocky outcrops. The photos don't even come close, but take my word for it, it was paradise.

We then head for another swim at the Garden of Eden, and are joined by a water monitor lizard. Another pool we pass on the way back has a water python in it - We've seen it all on this trip.

Today is an animal type day,as we head back towards Darwin to go on a crocodile cruise. We are held up temporarily by our van breaking down but it's just a chance to enjoy a glass of sprite in the shade while we wait for the engine to cool off!

We make it to the Corroborree Billabong with seconds to spare, and cruise around searching for crocs. We see two freshwaters, and one salty. This is the freshwater, and he is huge. Freshwater's don't normally get this big! Crocs can hold their breath for up to 2 hours by slowing their hearts down to 2 beats per minute. Amazing creatures.

And then it's back to Darwin. Kakadu is one of my ultimate Australian highlights - despite having an average group, and an OK guide, the place just really sells itself!