Tuesday, October 31, 2006

The One with the Inca Trail - Day 3

The hard part was now over and we were heading downhill pretty much all day.

We spotted 9 of the 350 types of orchid in this national park and even had a botany lesson on how to spot an orchid (not sure I am exactly a whizz on it now though!)

At the bottom of a long line of steps we washed our hands in the spring purifying ourselves for the last part of the journey. It was now also tipping with rain, so the rainbow of ponchos were out in force as we had a lesson on Incan Sacrifice. Luckily for Jimmy it was not a practical today!

With the Sacred Valley (and more importantly the bar at the campsite) now in sight, we stormed ahead (I was lucky only to fall over once!!!), and were soon having lunch at the campsite.

We headed in the afternoon to the nearby ruins of Winaywayna meaning Forever Young.

Here we had a lesson on Incan Numerology and the Incan Cross. Be warned - I will bore you all with the symbology when I get back as it's AMAZING!

We practiced "In the Jungle" to sing to the Porters tonight. Sadly, pretty much anyone who knows me has been made to sing this song now, but I'm proud to say that our group did a good job, although maybe the Temple of the Rainbow in the Sacred Valley is not the best place to have practiced it!

After a well earned beer, we had an amazing dinner (the porters had baked a CAKE for our guides birthday!) and then a party with the porters to thank them for the amazing job they've done, and of course sing them our song. Then it was off to bed (8.30pm - I am getting old!) ready for the final challenge and the 4am start.

Monday, October 30, 2006

The One with the Inca Trail - Day 2

We were awoken at 5.45 by the porters with a cup of coffee in bed which soon made you forget your uncomfortable nights sleep.

With the camp being deconstructed around us, we had breakfast and headed up the biggest slope of the trip to Dead Womans Pass (so named because the mountain resembles a woman lying on her back) We kept aiming for her chest!

I kept up with the pack but was soon overtaken by the 4 boys. Yvonne and I kept setting ourselves goals as we zig zagged up the hill, reaching the top in elation! We all got lollies from Mauro to celebrate!

Downhill then for an hour (working different muscles again) and completely suurrounded in cloud. The group is quite evenly paced so we reached the "lunch spot" at 10.30am!

With the cloud rolling in and shroaded in rain, the group donned their ponchos and we headed up once more stopping at RUNKURAQUY the ruins of a messengers house to learn about communication across the empire.


At the top of the hill we placed a stone to thank God for the safe passage. Whilst we were re-enacting Incan rituals, I personally felt that the whole experience was just as much a pilgrimage for me, and said a prayer myself as I placed the stone. Whilst the incas worshipped Nature, it is just as easy to thank our creator, and with the scenery around us it is easy to see why.

Down some more, and past the ruins of SAYAQMARKA the home of the shamen, and a lesson about Incan medicine. We were now in the cloud forest and the trees were covered in hanging moss and lichen. We settled in for the night in the middle of a cloud!

Sunday, October 29, 2006

The One with the Inca Trail - Day 1


Another early start and a bus trip through tiny dirt roads, past chickens and donkeys, and fishermen in the Urubamba river to Km 82 where we start the walk. The snow capped mountains look imposing, but there was excitement hidden there somewhere!

The Porters were already loading our duffel bags into large hessian sacks and hauling them on their backs, before trotting off at a jog up the hillside. In comparison, my daysac contained, water, camera and a jumper, and we puffed our way up the hills!

We had a group photo at the start, had our passports stamped (to proove we walked it and didn't take the train!) and headed forth.

Our guide Mauro was amazing. Stopping to point out flora and Fauna (Cacti's you can use as needle and thread, hummingbirds, Andean mint etc) and keeping the pace slow. At our first stop we had a banana and a portable waste disposable unit (pig) ate our peels before taking a liking to Karens bag. We think he got a couple of Antimalarial pills and some bug spray. Maybe he was just being cautious!

Our first big hill of the day rewarded us a rest and a history lesson about the Incas. With several of these every day we were soon piecing together the Iconography, History and Culture of the incas, and it all built to the anticipation of the final day!

Our first meal (lunch) and a taster of what was to come. Tent, fully laid tables, and 3 course meals (Pikey, Carys and Katie - how could you fail to mention how good the food was on the trail?)

As we left the thunder started to roll. You can really appreciate how the incas felt the Gods were in the Mountains and were unhappy. We did offer to sacrifice Jimmy (as the youngest and blondest) but he politely declined! Spoilsport!

The last stretch of the first day was hard. Up hill and with large steps. But the view at the end was worth it - as was the hot chocolate and popcorn waiting for us at camp. This camping lark is easy.

It's amazing how quickly the body can make you forget pain from a moment earlier. Warm and full we settled into the tents listening to the stupid dog barking at his own echo across the valley and the distant rumble of thunder. Ready for whatever tomorrow could throw at us.

Saturday, October 28, 2006

The One with the Unpronouncable Town Name

On the way to the Inca Trail and had our first taster of Inca Ruins. We went to the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo (double ll is a y - it's all a bit welsh!)

Pisac was really beautiful. Lots of terraced hills, and made all the more mystical by a loan Andean flute player on the hill side. The Accoustics were so good you could hear him from everywhere.

Apparantly the town of Pisac was built in the shape of a Llama, I guess if you tip your head to one side and squint....

Jimmy (being white as white) was asked by several locals to pose for photos with them. We tried to charge them 1 soles like they do us but to no avail!

From here to our base for the night - Ollantaytambo. Another set of ruins and another chance for a group photo. Here the little children usually posing for photos were intrigued by our history lesson and muscled to the front of our group to peer upwards at the pictures (really cute!)

There was a celebration in Ollantaytambo with a fiesta in the square and an apparantely really famous Peruvian Singer. Personally I thought she was shocking, and the song seemed to go on forever.

Nerves were setting in for the trek ahead!

Friday, October 27, 2006

Thursday, October 26, 2006

The One with Juanita and the Condor Watch!


5am wake up call - mmmm!

We travelled along the Colca River to the start of the Colca Canyon to watch the Condors rising on the Morning Thermals.

They had not been given the same time guide as us, so we spent a good 45 minutes spotting llama shaped rocks and dragons on the hillside formed by the clouds.

Finally the condors decided to show, and with hundreds of pairs of binoculars and cameras on them they performed like stars, circling up and around and swooping below with brilliant flashes of their black and white wings.

We were very lucky to see one perched on a ledge for some time, and with a whole group of people willing him to, he spread his wings and took off, with the cameras snapping in appreciation!

On the way back to Arequipa we stopped at Moca where I had my photo taken with Diana the Llama - she even smiled for the camera!

Back at Arequipa a bit earlier than expected, Jimmy, H and I went to the Juanita Museum to see Juanita the Ice Maiden of Ampato ( Neil - it looks like Ice Maidens don't stop at the ticket office!)

This was one thing from my A Level History that I had taken in! Juanita was an incan Sacrifice to the Ampato mountain, as due to El Nino, and the following weather conditions, the Incans thought their mountain God was angry with them. Anyway... Juanita walked from Cusco, up the 21,000ft mountain, where she was sedated with a drink called chicha and then bashed over the head with a mace. Because of the following snow, her mummy has been perfectly preserved (and without embalming like the Egyptians) - She still has her hair, and you can se all the details even down to her fingernails. The museum was fascinating and filled in a lots of missing bits of information from the previous few days. They even showed us the DVD that I had watched in A Level lessons 8 years earlier!!!

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

The One with the Alapaca

After a fairly decent nights sleep for a night on a bus, we arrived in Arequipa - The White City. A pretty little colonial town nestled amongst surrounding volcanos and mountains. We had a free day so just went and explored.

The next day we were up and off to Chivay. The route took us through some very high roads so we have been sucking coca candy as they help with the altitude (and H even munched some of the leaves - her before and after photos tell it all!) Personally I quite like the coca leaves as tea!
We stopped on route in the National reserve and saw some Vicunas - 1 of the 4 South American Camelids. They are so cool!

In Chivay, the locals dress in the traditional costume. We passed them farming on the terraces, with the women in their voluminous skirts and with spades tied to their backs where you could easily imagine a baby to be. Donkeys laden with straw wander down the dirt track road, and we often had to stop the minibus for a few stubborn sheep.

The landscape was amazing, and our hotel in Coporaque looked out over it. We went for a hike (if this is preparation for the Inca Trail then i'm in trouble - I was puffing with every step. This altitude stuff is serious business!)

Our hard work was rewarded, however, with a trip to the local thermal baths, where we sat in the outside pool, Pisco sour in hand, to relax after yet another packed day.

Our hotel also had a pet alapaca - who thought he was a dog! he was very tame, but rather like a sheep, in that he would eat anything. I can imagine the Peruvian version of Wallace and Gromit and the Close Shave now! We'll call him Al eh? come on Al!

Monday, October 23, 2006

The One with the Sick Bags

Thankfully, my iron lined stomach managed to hold up to the bumpy flight in the 6 seater plane over the Nazca Lines - others on my flight were unfortunately not so lucky.

Having never been in such a small plane, I was really excited - although I must admit I was little worried that the pilot kept the window open while we were taxi-ing on the runway! Soon we were in the air, and bouncing along the turbulence towards the famous Nazca Lines.

The pilot had given us a map of which route we would see the various characters. He would circle the plane first to the right and then to the left about the shape with the wing pointing it out and shout out what was (over and over again). " Left... Monkey monkey monkey monkey!"

More worryingly, he would turn to face us, holding the map in both hands and then point to where we were headed. Personally, I can follow a map adn would ahve preferred it if he'd kept his hands ont he wheel and his eyes out front!

We saw several shapes including the dog, astronaut, monkey, hummingbird, and whale to name but a few. No one knows what they are really for but it has been suggested that they are a star linked agricultural map.

Finally we landed and exited the plane quickly, with two of the party leaving with party bags they hadn't really come for!!! H was on a different plane but she got a party bag too!

Our hotel was great so we spent the rest of the day lazing by the pool before catching the night bus to Arequipa!

Sunday, October 22, 2006

The One with the Extreme Exfoliation!

Absolutely my best day so far since leaving home. I didn´t think i´d beat the canyons, and yet was blown away by Yosemite, and then today. FUN FUN FUN!

We headed at stupid o´clock to Paracas - a small village where you catch the boat to the Ballestas Islands. The small speed boat whipped over the quiet waters of the bay towards the sea, and from here we bounced along the water, stopping to look at a engraving in the hill of a candelabra, before heading towards the Islands themselves.

The water was covered with sea birds which took flight as we approached, over head were swarms of Comorants and Boobies, with some flying high above us and others seemingly hovering over the surface of the water with their wing tips skirting dangerously close to the waves.

Every now and then a bird would drop from the sky and peform the perfect dive bomb, disappearing suddenly from view and appearing moments later straight back into flight.

As we neared the rocks, more birds could be seen (and their excrement smelt). I pity the poor souls whose job it is once every five years to shovel sacks of it for fertaliser. It is apparently a big seller in Peru!

But the smell was soon put to one side at the sight of Pelicans, Penguins, the afore mentioned Comorants and Boobies and Inca Terns nestling all over the island. One Pelican flew overhead with a beak full of nesting materials. (And yes Dad, I did recite the poem!)

Other residents include sealions, who were arguing over rock positions, or basking despite the sky being overcast. In one cove every wave brought forth more sealions to shore, as though they were pebbles being washed up on the beach. We even saw some babies.

As the boat headed back to Paracas, if it hadn´t have been for the land it would have been hard to tell were the sea ended and the sky began. We were skirting over the glassy water, and I could have sworn the white clouds above us looked like waves. The water was broken only by the stream lined wake of the boat and the odd head of a playful sealion or penguin.

We headed to a Winery at lunchtime in Ica and learnt how to make Pisco. We also had a few tasters which, before lunch, on a now gloriously hot day, did make me feel slightly tipsy (it was like having three shots of tequilla on an empty stomach and then getting back on the bus). Thankfully, now in South America, Air Con is determined on whether the window is open or shut, so I am no longer freezing on every journey!

Lastly we headed to Huacachina. A small village built around an oasis. Daphne excluded, I hope I am not the only one who didn´t realise that there was a desert similar in looks to the Sahara in Peru.

The oasis was just as you´d imagine. A pool surrounded by palm trees! But the best was yet to come.

SAND BUGGIES and SAND BOARDING!!!!!!!

We drove over the dunes in a cage on 4 wheel drive, and screamed with exhilaration as it skimmed the sand slopes at terrifying speeds considering their gradient. At the top we teetered down the other side leaving our stomachs way behind us and whooping in delight. Better than any rollercoaster I had ever been on.

If that was not dare devil enough we lay on a snow board which had been greased underneath and sped down the steep slopes on our stomachs. Smiling causes sand to get in your mouth, but even that didn´t seem to matter.

As I said, extreme exfoliation. Only meant for tough girls - like exfoliating with an electric Sander. But MUCH MORE FUN!

Saturday, October 21, 2006

The One with the Earthquake

You read it right.

Sadly... I slept through it. 6am yesterday a tremor rocked Lima, leaving all other hotel residents wondering what the hell was going on and why the room and light fixtures were shaking. Helen and I were snoring our heads off and remained completely oblivious to the whole affair. Doh!

Just spent a day in Lima. Went on a city tour yesterday and on the corner of the street (by a dog wearing a hat and glasses!) we ran into Milly! Hoorah! Had a great dinner with her last night and will catch up with her again in Cuzco.

The tour took us to a pre incan ruin (which I can't pronounce let alone spell) the Love Park by the sea, based on Parc Guell in Barcelona, and the main heart of Lima with its Cathedral, City Hall and Government building.

We also went to the church of San Francisco and the Catacoombs. A little peruvian girl seemed amazed at one of our groups digital camera (she was sooo cute)

In the Catacoombs were lots of bones - mainly femurs and skulls - all neatly arranged with teh sign DO NOT TOUCH above them. What kind of sick tourists come here. I wouldn't touch them if you paid me to. ' My sister went to Lima and all I got was this lousy femur!' I can see the t-shirts now!

Had our first Pisco Sour - I'm hoping they will grow on me. We're off to Pisco now. I am very excited about this trip!

Thursday, October 19, 2006

The One in Stinky LA Part 2

After a very long bus and train journey back to LA (where we were given 30 dollars by a stranger just for being English!), we were back in the metropolitan bustle and smog that is LA.

We spent two lazy days doing pretty much nothing other than re take all my LA photos and visit Mels Diner (where Happy Days was filmed - allegedly!)

There was one marked difference however - I could see the sky! It is blue. Even in LA! The sun adn the blue sky do make LA more bearable although I would still prefer to be anywhere else in the world!

Our last day was great though. We went to Universal Studios - a day of rides and shows. We saw Wisteria Lane (for any Desperate Housewives fans!), Bates Motel from Pyscho, and the Plane crash from War of the Worlds ont eh studio tour.

We travelled in De Lorien from Back to the Future, and almost got eaten by a Tyrannasaurus Rex in Jurassic Park. The Raptors here are very rude - they spit at you!.

The Shrek 4D was hilarious. We got soaked by Donkey's Sneezes and spiders ran over our feet (althought they didn't run over mine as I had them off the floor - I'm a professional at avoiding these sorts of nasties - and yes I did keep my eyes open this time Mum!)

My absolute highlight, however, was meeting Shrek, Curious George and Spiderman!

That evening we took Scott (who gave us the lift to LA orginally) out to dinner, and then went to the cinema to see the Queen (as Scott said - "it's about your people!")

I'm actually really sad to leave America.

I never thought I'd say it but I really love it here and, have met such nice people and seen some amazing things. If I was allowed to eat with a knife and fork I might even consider moving here!

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

The One with the American Shakespeare

Back on the road, and a ten hour trip to Ashland, Oregon for the Shakespeare Festival.

Ashland is truly beautiful - autumnal coloured trees, every shade imaginable, glinting in the morning sun, in this quiet sleepy town.

The production of The Winters Tale was fabulous - even with American accents - proving once more that Shakespeare is not only timeless but world wide accessable. Hats off to Autolycus with his rubbery face, and amusing performance.

Shame we couldn't stay longer. Good food, beautiful Scenery, and Shakespeare. What more could a girl want?!

Friday, October 13, 2006

The One With the Camping Trip

Chris and I with a Smiley Rock!

Or The One where "My Oklahoma Home got Blowed Away!" - Bruce Springsteen - seriously, listen to it. And make sure you join in. "Blowed away". You'll get the hang of it!

So with a unknown thirst for Camping and hiking (did D of E not teach me anything!) H and I set out once again with Incredible Adventures, this time to take in the wonder of Yosemite National Park.

Justin and Scott could not join us on this trip so it was filmed by their friend Chris Bailey (good surname) another Florida Film School Survivor, who kept us all amused with his many accents (he does a fab Prince Charles impression) and stories.

We were also joined by Milly - who shared the tent with H and I and also shared our sense of humour!, 3 Ozzies - Sally, Rhys and Scott, Andres (a Mexican), Gonzalo and Adelaida (Spanish) , Yana (Israeli), Paul (English) and Aisling and Patrick (Irish) and Tim our guide. The group was as ecclectic as Tim's music taste, but it all led to a good deal of banter (and pom bashing!). Although to be fair we did give the Americans some abuse too!

The park is huge, and varied. We first stopped at the Mariposa Grove home to the Giant Sequoia trees. (James, these sorts of trees were around when Dinosaurs were!). They are seriously huge. It would take 20-30 people to join hands around the largest in this grove - Giant Grizzly - who is estimated to be 2700 years old!

The hike was as varied as looking at trees can be. We walked over them (wobbly!), walked through them (The Tunnel Tree) went inside a hollow one, and even gave a large one a hug!

That night H and I butchered some chicken on the bone with blunt knives, leading to a mess which was somewhat resemblant to Dawn of the Dead! (We had Fajitas- not just for fun!)

The next day we headed to the High Country and saw some erratics (polished granite boulders left by glaciers), before hiking through Snow to the top of Lembard Dome which afforded brilliant views of snow capped mountains and sunny meadows.

The third day we hiked down from Glacier Point looking over the Yosemite Valley. We spotted sleeping giants in the rock formations and wondered at the brilliant blue of a Steller Jay. With the 8000 odd ft of Half Dome standing majestically over us as we hiked the 4.8 miles down into the valley.

We then played spot the climber at El Capitan (if you use a telescope you're cheating!)

With such an international group the Camp Fire was always going to be amusing - singing, more s'mores and stories and jokes around the fire.

A truly memorable trip!

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

"I left my (camera) in San Francisco!"

Well it was here that I discovered it was missing - which was rather annoying to say the least as I had about 200 photos on it. Anyway - I have a new one now so all is well.

San Francisco is fantastic - very very hilly (my calves are now SOLID!), but offering great views of the bay, the Golden Gate bridge and Alcatraz!

We've had a busy 4 days. We've been on a walking tour, which took in Fisherman's Wharf and their resident Sealions. They are all male and spend most of their time either sleeping or fighting (what's new!). I particularly enjoyed watching them pushing each other off the floats - they look very posh with their noses in the air and their whiskers framing their faces like a moustache. I have mastered my Sealion Impression and am now fluent (Arf Arf Arf!)

The tour also took us to Coit Tower, and through Little Italy and China Town (where the markets had live frogs and turtles on sale for dinner that night!)

That night we rode the Cable Car. We were hanging on the side (for dear life) and reached the Fishermans Wharf for sunset! The guy really rang that bell. It seems to have 2 meanings - GET OUT OF MY WAY, or I'm going to put the brake on now! We also got stuck (as we got cut up by a car) and needed a push up the next hill by a van with a massive steel bumper - a bit like a snow plough!

The next day we went on a walking tour of our own making. 7 hours later we were exhausted! We went to Mission Dolores (the oldest building to survive the 1906 earthquake) and used to "civilise" the native Americans to Christianity.

We then headed up a MASSIVE hill to the Golden Gate Park and to the Japanese Tea Room and Garden, complete with carp ponds and bonzai trees, where we stopped for a pot of Jasmine Tea.

Then we walked to the Golden Gate Bridge, via Barker Beach, and up some winding roads. As we crossed the bridge the fog started to roll in, and to quote Eddie Izzard - "it can really shift it - it's fog in a hurry!"

From here we wanted to catch the bus, but were too busy talking and the next thing we knew we were back at Fishermans Wharf. Quite a trek!

Today we went to Alcatraz (said in Eddie Izzard type voice) thanks to Sara and Gav who sold us theirs after the ticket office messed up our order. We are eternally grateful to them!

We took the Audio tour round, learning about the attempted escapes and the notorious inmates. I really enjoyed the description of the Birdman of Alcatraz " He was fluent in 3 languages, and a mathematician - a brilliant Man. Also a Suicidal, homicidal, Pyschopath!" - I guess that's what Maths does to some people!!!!! Funnily enough he never kept birds at Alcatraz!

Tomorrow we're off camping again and on the search for Yosemite Sam.

Thursday, October 5, 2006

The One with the Sunburn or Stay Classy San Diego

I have to wander momentarily from my friends themed titles in homage of Anchorman set here!

As the train travelled down the coast and we realised that the sky is not pemanently grey in California, a weight lifted off my shoulders. We travelled along the beach itself with the blue water lapping the white sands and surfers silhouetted in the morning sun, riding the pacific waves on their journey to the shore. We even saw a pelican flying alongside the train.

San Diego was great. Out hostel was in the heart of the Gaslamp district - surrounded by Happy Hour bars and restuarants ( a Margareta is cheaper here than a Starbucks!)

We took the opportunity to chill out. We went to the famous San Diego Zoo and saw Su Lin the 14 month old Panda Cub, performing sealions and Cloud Leopards.

We also had a day lazing on the Pacific Beach (and are both now red to prove it!) H walks a bit like John Wayne at the mo!

A perfect Idyll compared to LA.

Sunday, October 1, 2006

The One in Stinky LA

As you can probably tell by my loving title - I do not like LA. It is dirty, grubby, and tacky. I know that this sounds ironic having loved Vegas - but Vegas is proud of it's tackiness - you know it will be tacky - it screams "look at me - don't you just love how tacky I am " and we all yell Yes in unison.

LA in comparison, yells from the TV - "look at me I'm the epitomy of glamour and sex appeal, I am so beautiful, and rich" - and when you get there you feel like filing under the trading standards for false advertising. Where was the dirt and smog and bad souveniers on the TV? - probably swept under the red carpet for the few nights a year of the Oscars.

That aside we saw the Hollywood homes and sites (some a little dubious - to be honest Joe Bloggs could have lived there and we wouldn't know any different), we saw the walk of fame, and the footprints of Chinese Theatre, and we saw the big Hollywood sign (which is the epitomy of Hollywood itself - really famous, and an icon for the film industry but actually originally an advetisement for real estate!)

Two main highlights. A really amazing thai resturarant on Sunset, and watching (laughing!) at the 1970's Dawn of the Dead at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. I know. It's weird. Watching a zombie film in a cemetery. At Night. But it was so cool. Surrounded by hundreds of people better prepared than us with picnics and duvets and candles. who all knew the film and where the key lines were and cheered. And to be honest ... it's hard to be scared when the zombies are wearing a small amount of blue make up and walking woodenly around a shopping centre!

Anyway... Sadly we have to go back to LA, but we were very glad to leave.