Tuesday, November 7, 2006

The One with the New Mum and Dad

Woozy start to the day, for the trip to Puno (shouldn´t have had the last Gin), but looking better than some members of our group who had been out until 5am.

The trip to Puno was uneventful, and we got ready for our trip to Late Titicaca the following day.

Our transport to the port was by bicycle style rickshaws. Apparantly it was not a race, but I´m sure the drivers hadn´t heard that rule. Ours was 2nd for the whole way but we got overtaken at the last stretch by those with lighter loads!

We bought our presents for the homestay - sugar, porridge, candles, rice, oil and colouring pens in case we have children in the family. Nikolas and I also bought pens, rubbers, paper etc, to hand out to any children we met on Taquile Island. You can´t give them sweets as there is no real dental care, so this they could use at school!

We boarded the boat and headed off through the algae covered water. A bit further out, however, the water became clear, with the distant hills reflected in it, as well as the ever increasing clumps of reeds. We sat on top of the boat, with the wind rippling our hair and the sun reflecting in sparkles on the water.

We rode for about an hour and arrived at Taquile Island. We went to the opposite end to that which all the other boats were headed, and walked throught the mediterranean-esque landscape. It was how I imagine the greek islands to be, with the hot sun beating down over the blue water as far as the eye can see, except for the emergence of the odd island here or there!

On this island it is the men who knit, and the married men wear a red hat (a bit like a decorative santa) while unmarried men and boys wear a simpler white and red hat. The married men also have a bag (Man Bag) full of coca leaves, which keeps them strong.

The women wear a large black shawl over their heads which has a pom pom on the end. The size of the pom pom determines whether or not they are married.

We had a lovely lunch (King Fish!) and headed back to the boat for another hour or so´s ride to Amantani Island, our home for the night.

We met our family, Maruja (Mum), Reuben (Dad) and our two teenage brothers Joel and Wilber. Nikolas was also staying at our house, and one set of grandparents also lived there. As we headed up the hill for our first glimpse of home Maruja continued knitting a hat. It was knitted circularly up like a cone, and the spare wool hung around her neck.

As the locals can't tell us apart (?!) we were all given a hat to wear, identifying us to our Mums!

We headed off to play football against the locals. As the boys were short I stepped in, and after a few bad passes instantly got told to mark the smallest child on the opposition, and even then I had to hold him still to stop him getting to the ball. I subbed myself off, but got subbed on again later in the game (through pure desperation)and was in goal. After a couple of spectacular saves ( or flukely making sure my body was in the way of the ball) I let in 4 goals in as many minutes, losing us the game. There is no glory being a goalie!

The boys continued and won the second game, so there was a golden goal decider which we also won. The first tourist team to do so!

We headed back home, and helped with dinner by shelling peas and cutting up a carrot. My limited Spanish and even less Quechuan made conversation difficult, but we got by, and having Nikolas there was like having our own personal translator. Nikolas, H and I also helped one of the boys with his English homework!

After dinner, we got ready for the party at the village hall. Mum dressed us in the local costume - two skirts heavily embroidered, an embroidered blouse, and a tight belt, which certainly held your stomach in but also your lungs! We also had a shawl to wear on our heads but I spent most of the night with it on like a stoal as it kept falling off.

We danced and we danced and we danced. Pan pipes rule ( maybe I exaggerate about the pan pipes, but the dancing was certainly fun), and before we knew it out mum was nearly asleep in the corner and it was time to go home.

The next day we said our fond farewells and headed back to the boat, for our trips to the Uros Floating Reed Islands.

These islands really do float, and are rather bouncy to walk on! We tried a bit of the reed, and looked around the tiny reed houses (one bed sleeps four, Charlie Bucket Style) before taking a reed boat to another island. Really amazing.


Then it was back to Puno for our last night in Peru!

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