Wednesday, November 1, 2006

The One with the Final Ascent

We set off at 4.30am - don't we all look awake! - and Jimmy decided to wake all those who had insisted on partying to all hours, waking us up last night:






Is this the Way to Machu Picchu (Sung to the tune of Amarillo!)

When the day is dawning
On an Incan Wednesday Morning
How I long to be there
Machu Picchu waiting for me there.

All across the jungle (ba ba ba ba ba)
Hikers passing by (ba ba ba ba ba)
In a race to get there
To see the Sun Rise

Is this the way to Machu Picchu?
I've been walking for days just to see you
Dreaming dreams of Machu Picchu
And Machu Picchu waits for me.

We were the second group in the queue waiting for the gate to open at 5.30am, and then the "race" began. The competition between us and the other gap group was fierce. They had the leggy Dutch girl who was obviously European Power Walking Champion, but soon (at a fair trot I might add) we had passed 5 of the lead group.

Following Mauro's instructions we reached the 70 near vertical stone steps scrambling on hands and knees knowing that the end is near.

Except it wasn't.

Mauro had used poetic licence and with hearts sinking we had to carry on at a slightly slower pace allowing some of the others to overtake us. grr.

Still, we eventually reached the Sun Gate for our first views of Machu Picchu. It had taken us 35 minutes to walk the 5km - which explains why I am like a beetroot in all the pictures, and hence why they are not on here!




We had a triumphant group photo, and spent some time marvelling at our goal, nestled in the dawn, accompanied by Llamas.

We had a 2 hour tour of the site, visiting the Temple of the Sun (where the sun lines up exactly at the two Equinoxes, being channeled through the sun gate and a V shape in a mountain.)

We visited the temple of the main Creator God called APU ILLA TECSI TITI CONTIKI APU HUYUYUC PUNCHOU WIRACOCHA PACHA YACHACHIC or Mr W for short.

I, personally, was most impressed with the hitching post of the sun. Standing at the highest point of Machu Picchu , the sun hits the stone at the two solctices . The smaller stone on the top also acts as a sundial determining Anti, Inti or Conti (morning, noon or afternoon).

The stone is also a rhomboid, matching the Southern Cross constellation and lining up exactly with 4 surrounding mountains and the compass points. Plus, the top of the smaller stone slopes at a 13ยบ angle - the exact same latitude postion below the equator as where Macchu Picchu stands.

A delta force of the group (myself, H, Katy O, Jimmy and Chris) decided that our legs had not been challenged enough and decided to climb Wanaypicchu (Young Mountain) as well. Wanaypicchu is the big peak in the background of all the famous pictures, and also has ruins on the top. As we rounded the first corner and saw the steepness of the stone steps, I began question both my decision and my ability to complete the task ahead, but we ploughed on and reached the top (even having to practically crawl through a tunnel on the way!)

The way down was slightly more hairy, being scared of heights and facing some incredible steep steps down. In the truly British way, I politely stepped aside for the annoying woman complaining at my speed, and stating she had to be down by 12 noon and quitely muttered things under my breath. By the way, we reached the bottom at 11.35am, about 2 minutes after her!

Sadly, we had to leave. I could have spent a lot longer there - althougth as the train loads of people had now arrived and it was starting to get very full.

We bussed down the hill to Agua Calientes, caught the train back to Ollantaytambo, and then a bus back to Cusco. Triumphant but exhausted!

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