The One with the Volcano

We were up at the crack of dawn and on the boat to White Island, an active Marine Volcano off the coast off the Bay of Plenty.

The weather was bright but windy, and we sat at the back of the boat admiring the early morning sun. Sadly this is also where they sent the sea sick people, so as we progressed along, we were joined by more and more green faces.

As we approached the island we were issued with hard hats, and gas masks, and instructed on what to do in the event of an eruption. Quite an uneasy feeling started to creep over me, when our guide said, "and don't forget to put on your gas masks, as if the falling rock doesn't get you the ash and fumes will!" - great!- thankfully these instructions were not needed

We had a 2 hour walking tour around the island, complete with steaming fumaroles, and a large crater lake, again pouring forth steam. The landscape is like something from Mars, and covered with pressure points - a thin crust seperating us from boiling bubbling mud pools.

Nature at it's wildest.

They used to mine the sulphur here, but a couple of eruptions soon put a stop to that, and the remains of the corroding factory are down by the waterfront. The guides here get through so many pairs of sunglasses, shoes and backpacks a year, as anything metal on them corrodes rapidly in the sulphurous air.

Back on the boat, we had lunch, and then back at Whakatane, we journeyed onwards, through Gisborne to Takamoru Bay (1 hour further north on the East Coast) where we would be spending New Year,

The One with the Bad Smell and the Gerbil Ball

Next stop on the whistle stop tour of North Island is Rotorua. You truly can smell it before you see it, the sulphur bad egg smell hits you as you drive down the hill, but you soon get used to it, and to be honest I have been around worse.

We arrived at lunchtime on the 28th and headed straight to Te Puia, one of the geothermal sites, home to the Pohuta and Prince of Wales Feathers Geysers, several sets of mudpools, and a fantastic Mauri Cultural Show, where we saw the Haka, and the women danced with Poi (balls on a string!)

That evening we went for a Hangi - think Peruvian Pachamancha, but more sterilised! On our coach ride in we paddled the woka (coach) on to the motorway, chanting Te Woka - HEE!! at the tops of our voicces. We must have looked a right sight.

Rod was chosen as the chief of our tribe and taught to honga (press noses together - the Mauri welcome) He joined 3 other Chiefs as we waited to welcomed by the Maori tribe.

The Maori are one of the only people who welcome you with an act of intimidation to gauge whether you are friend or foe. This involves a lot of tongue poking, wide eyes and gutaral sounds. The warrior places a branch in front of a chosen chief (chief chief if you like) - Rod was chosen by the warrior and had to pick up the branch as a symbol of peace. We were then invited into the village.

We had another performance of the traditional Maori dances and songs, and then went into dinner, which had all been cooked underground on stones (just like the Pachamancha - althought this time you didn't get to watch it get dug up and it had been cooked in stainless steel trays not wrapped in leaves!)

The food was good, and then we paddled back to the hotel (not before Larry the driver led us in a rendition of "She'll be coming round the Mountain when she comes", combined with going round a mini roundabout 4 times!!!)

The next day we went to Wai-O-Tapu (amusingly known as the thermal wonderland!). This time we saw the Lady Knox Geyser (set off daily with the help of soap!), and a whole load of mud pools and thermal pools generally all named after something to do with the devil. The devils bath, ink pots, palette etc!

From here we drove back to central to Rotorua to Zorb.

Imagine if you like, a giant gerbil ball, add a bucket of cold water, 2 people and a hill, and you have zorbing. The ultimate adventure, and really makes you empathise with a pair of socks in a washing machine.

So much fun, you whoosh about uncontrollably, (you are loose inside the ball), and of course are completely soaked by the time you reach the bottom!

We then dried off and went to the Agrodome to watch a sheep show (just to make Rod feel at home!), which again was very amusing.

After a fully packed day we jumped back in the car and drove to Whakatane (Wh is pronounced F)

The One with the Golum Pose

On Boxing Day, H, Rod and I headed into Auckland to show Rod the sights.

He celebrated by jumping off the sky tower (maddness!). It's a bit like base jump, but you are attached to two wires so you have a regulated fall speed of about 86kmph, but you are harnessed so there is no free fall like a bungee. That said, it all looked pretty scary to me!

We then headed to Kelly Tarlton's Aquarium, and admired the penguins, Sting Rays, and sharks from close quarters. The eels were not Conga eels as they were not joined in a line singing (da da da da da da!)

The next day Rod and I hired a car and bade farewell to H as she is off to a family wedding in the Cook Islands. We set off south in the rain to Waitomo, where the weather didn't matter as we would be spending the afternoon underground - caving!

There were 8 of us in our party, a couple from OZ, a kiwi couple and a couple from Argentina. The latter provided me with much entertainment, as it would seem to us that the guy had booked the trip (called the Black Abyss) and the girlfriend had not known what it entailed. She was certainly not happy about being there and there were a few hasty exchanges in Spanish. Not a time for the El Pato joke, I fear!

Now in my third outing in a wetsuit this trip I can confirm that I do not look good! Especially as this time they gave me a stripey blue and pink balaclava.... everyone else had black ones and could pretend to be the milk tray man, I look like a dodgy Where's Wally!

Our first adventure was rappelling/abseiling into the cave which is shaped like an hour glass. I have only abseiled down a flat wall before so having to abseil down in a sitting position prooved a bit more difficult, plus the instructions of letting the rope glide through your hand went against everything that my body was telling me... ie "hold on as tight as you can or you will die". I wish I could say that I was smooth and graceful adn will be featuring as the next Bond Girl.... but I would be lying. It was not pretty, but I made it down!

From here we had to zip line in the dark... again, hesitation made for a bumpy start, a little more like a flying elephant than a flying fox, but who's counting?!

We then jumped, with rubber ring, into a freezing underground river (complete with eels!) - this took me two attempts until I was brave enough to jump, and then we pulled ourselves upstream along a rope to admire the glowworms in the cave.

From here we walked, swam and squeezed our way through tight gaps (stopping for hot orange and chocolate to warm us up en route) before choosing the "doom" option, of climbing out of the cave via two fast flowing waterfalls.

As you can see by the photo, several hours underground turned me into Gollum, as I emerged from the cave!!!

Awesome fun, and despite what you might think, the Argentinian girl would have got the top marks for wussiness so I still came out with my head held high!

The One with the Two Christmasses

We actually had a Christmas on the 18th December, as Huw's son Gareth and his Girlfriend Denise were over and would be flying back. We decorated the tree, made a yule log, and did the usual Christmas thing of eating and drinking too much. It even rained heavily for us so we could feel at home!

Then on the 25th itself, H, Huw and I were up at 5am... not to excitedly open presents but to go to the airport to pick up Rod!

The airport was packed (a lot of us wearing santa hats!), but we soon had him in the car, back to howick adn tucking into a full English Breakfast.

We did the presnt thing... thank you so much to those of you who sent me something over, it is much appreciated! Jessica please note that I am proudly wearing my Christmas Pudding socks in the photo!

Then it was over to Huw's Daughter Ruth's house, for more food, and a chance to play with her son Reagan's Lego, and read him his new story books!

We had turkey, but with salad and beef done on the Barbie! The traditional Christmas dessert here seems to be pavlova!

Anyway, althought I missed my traditional Christmas at home with you guys, and the carols by candlelight service, the Southern Cross and the Midnight Mass etc, Christmas was still a great one - especially as Rod was here!

Happy Christmas!!!

The One with the Pirate Ship

Raring to go, we headed off on the stray bus for our mini adventure to the Bay of Islands and Cape Reinga.

Our bus journey north in the terrible weather meant that we couldn't stop at Goat Island for Snorkelling so we visited a bird rescue centre instead. Here we met Woof Woof, a talking Tui bird (he sneezes and says he has a cold, and wishes us a Happy Christmas etc- all in a rather electronic sounding voice a bit C3P0-esque), and got to stroke a one legged Kiwi bird. The Kiwi is soft underneath but his top feathers are rather waxy like a teenager with too much gel on!

We also got to see and stroke two baby blue penguins, which were really really cute! The guy also told us of one bird he had (I think it was a Pukeko) who was crying out as though he was caught. When the guy reached the bird he found it standing on his own foot, and the Pukeko couldn't work out what was happening. The bird (when freed of his own feet) then proceeded to lecture his feet, squawking away!

We stopped at a Kauri forest, and the Hundertwasser Toilets (Gaudi-esque toilets, bright colours, and encorporating nature, and recycling) and finally arrived at the Pipi Patch in Paihia, our really cool home for the next few nights!

The next day we set off to Cape Reinga - the most northerly point of North Island. The weather was foul (we all look rather attractive in our macs?!) and we were almost blown off the edge of the most Northerly point of New Zealand!

On the way back we drove down 90 Mile Beach (Which is actually only 60 miles long!), and went in search of Tua, a shellfish which lurks in the sand. The key is top squeeze it open when it still has its tongue out (take it by surprise if you will). It looks like an ear, and you eat it there and then... doesn't taste of much! We also stopped for yummy Fish and chips on the way home!

The next day we set off early and took the ferry across to Russell where we boarded the R Tucker Thompson a big Schooner. The staff were having their Christmas party that day so were all dressed as pirates and so I hummed the theme of Pirates of the Carribbean as we set off. (Hey, it's better than "we are sailing....!")

We had a cream tea, and then had the chance to climb the rigging. I settled for crawling out to the large wooden beam at the front of the boat, (and did the Titanic arms for cheese value). We stopped in a bay, and went for a walk on a little island, and then had lunch on the boat, before setting off our cannon at a catamaran and whizzing back to Russell.

Going against the wind we were now using the engine on the boat, which gave out just off shore of Russell. We had to take the motorised inflatable to shore, and then find a place to moor which involved us scrambling up on to the jetty in a very un ladylike manner. I also got soaked due to a few stray waves. We always seem to find the adventure!

The next day we went for a tour of the Waitangi Treaty ground.

We had a fantastic tour with a Mauri guide, who gave us all the history. We saw the big Waka (canoe), and went into the meeting house or Maere. The Mauri culture is fascinating.

That afternoon we caught the Stray bus to Whangarei, where Graham met us. We spent the night camping with him and Jo about 40 minutes away. The pitch was right overlooking the beach. It couldn't have been better. We drank wine under the stars (including shooting stars and satelittes).

The next day we went for a walk to another beach, and had a mince pie under a Pohutakawa tree. It's weird to think we're just 3 days away from Christmas! Then sat and wathced some patient surfers, and boogie boarders and a couple of nesting Oyster Catchers, before catching the Stray bus back to Auckland.

The One with Adventures in Auckland

Finally back in a country where you can flush the toilet paper and drink the water, we took full advantage of staying with H's Dad's cousin Huw, and took over the washing machine, and marvelled at having a bath! It's funny what you come to take for granted at home. When you are on the road, simply having clean clothes and the opportunity to have a bath seem like pure luxury!

We will be using Huw's as a base for the next couple of weeks, so used the opportunity for several day trips into Auckland itslef.

On the Sunday after we arrived we went out for dinner with Katy O, Karen, Susan and Martin for a mini GAP reunion in a Belgian Pub. It was great to meet up with those guys and reminisce about Peru, but to also talk about NZ.

On the Monday we hit the I site and came home with bag fulls of fliers about NZ so we can plan our attack!

Tuesday saw us on a bus tour around the city. We went up Bastion Point for some great views, to two churches (one has fantastic stained glass windows) and then to the Auckland Museum. That night H and I took the ferry across the bay and met up with my Dad's cousin Graham and his wife Jo who took us out for dinner.

Wednesday was a walking day. We walked the 16km of the Coast to Coast walk. This took us across from the sky tower all the way across to Onehunga, taking in the Domain, Mount Eden and One Tree Hill en route. Although the weather wasn't great it was a great hike, and we took an easy pace. That evening we went to a Christmas Party and met all of Huw's neighbours.

Thursday, and we ventured out to Rangitoto Island. An extinct Volcano off the shores of Auckland. We walked up to the summit and around it's base, admiring the Pohutakawa Tree's in blossom (they are known as the NZ Christmas tree as they flower in December), taking in the black lava flow and the little fan tail birds (which I renamed the shuttlecock bird), and more importantly avoiding the school kids.

We chilled for the rest of the week, preparing for our trip to the Bay of Islands next week.

The One with the Wine Tasting

After an eventful flight involving us flying from Rio, to Sao Paulo twice (a thunderstorm stopped us landing and then we had to go back to Rio to refuel), we finally touched down in Chile for our 3 day whistlestop visit of Santiago.

Back using Spanish, we managed to secure a taxi, and with our use of Jimmy's El Pato joke, also managed to get a 40 minute Spanish lesson from the Taxi driver thrown in to boot!

The next day we set off to see Santiago. First stop was the Santa Lucia, a random little park full of turrets and windy walkways. It was here we provided much mirth to the locals as we nearly dropped to the ground when the 12pm cannons went off. I thought we were under fire!

From here to the main square with a HUGE Christmas Tree glinting in the brilliant sunshine against the blue sky... very odd! We whipped around the Cathedral, walked to the fish market, and then powered along to the San Cristobal hill topped with a big Mary.

To be honest after the big JC, all other white statues of biblical figures pale in insignificance but it did afford great views of the city, half hidden in haze, but surrounded by the Andes.

The next day we thought we'd do the cultural thing (or boozy thing) and go on a wine tasting tour.

We were jouined by another English couple, 3 Venezualans and a Brazilian. We toured two Vineyards, one small one which only produces 6000 bottles a year, and another HUGE one called Underraga. We learnt about the wine producing process, and then (more importantly) got to taste the finished article.

Sadly, this is where I, at least, came across as a bit of a wine tasting heathen. The couple with us have a house in france and belonged to a wine tasting club (exactly!). So along with the rest of them I swilled my wine, smelt it, (I was told I could smell prunes and raspeberries, to be honest they could tell me it smelt of the back left hoof of a lame Llama, but it just smelt like wine to me!), and thn the all important taste. Yup, wet, tasty and alcoholic... that's pretty much all I'm looking for in a wine!

Needless to say, with the heat, long car trips and wine, I was pretty sleepy by the end of it all!

Next stop NZ!

The One with the Big JC

It was with much excitement that we entered Rio on the bus, and searched the skylines to be the first one to spot Christ the Redeemer (Forthwith referred to as The Big JC) I think Ros won, by the way!.

With some people leaving the next day we were all on a mission to DO Rio in as little time as possible, and so headed straight out that evening to watch the sun set over Rio from the Sugar Loaf mountain.

Two cable cars later, and with a cold beer in the hand we sat and watched a the sun sunk behind the Morro's, with the spectacular Big JC sillhouetted against the orange sky. I have taken so many photos , but nothing will do that memory justice.

That evening we went to a traditional Brazilian style restaurant. MEAT MEAT MEAT.... until you say stop. We also pottered through LAPA, the nightlife area of town, although we were observers rather than revellers, as we were so exhausted. It looked a lot of fun though, with street vendors selling food and drinks and tons of people milling in the streets.

The next day and H and I were on a mission. Taxi to Ipanema (humming the song), walk on the beach, admire the sand sculpture Santa... (surely he should wear a T-shirt and shorts in the Southern Hemisphere?), a stroll through the Feira de Hippie, Ipanema (more earrings purchased), and back to the hotel to meet the others for our tour of 2 of the cities Favelas.

Our guide for the Favelas was amazing. Really informative, and they really have to be seen to be believed. Thousands of people living on top of each other in houses that clambour on top of each other up the hillside.

From here to the Big JC himself... he really is just as amazing as you would ever imagine him to be, and we spent ages admiring the views of Rio, Sugar Loaf mountain, and trying to get the perfect JC shot! Then back via Copacobana... (hummed than song too!)

Wish I'd had more time in Rio, but fitted in as much as we could, and now we're just back to the two of us.

The One with the Infamous Five and the Island Adventure

First of all, I'd like to point out that an Island paradise is still an Island paradise even if it pours non stop with continual rain.

Our first contact with a beach in Brazil did remind us somewhat of a summer holiday in Wales, but the rain was (dare I say it) even heavier than anything Wales has to offer, but thankfully also a lot warmer!

Our hotel in Isla Grande was beautiful, and the rain did not stop the hummingbirds which darted between the brightly coloured blooms, and the hummingbird feeders, their wings a blur, whilst in the distance the jungle covered hills slowly disappeared under the lowering cloud. Surprisingly beautiful!

We decided to go on a hike, and set off through the "jungle", having been joined by Andrea and Elaine from another GAP group also staying at the same hotel. Our route took us through a shallow river, where local teenagers were sliding down small waterfalls into a deep pool. (NB why do Brazilian men think they look good in White speedos?!)

We walked up and up, and were soon drenched to the skin, and as we reached the turning to the waterfalls, we parted company with Andy, Mary-Ann, Terry and Ros, and headed up the steep hill (It was scramble on hands and knees steep!)

We were now the Infamous Five (we elected Robert as Timmy the Dog!), and made adventurous decisions such as which path to take, before deciding to head back before getting disasterously lost. As we headed back the way we came, we spotted some big arrows marked on the floor pointing the correct way... we had missed these before, whilst admiring some Red Fungi. Great adventurers we make!

On track to the waterfalls, we headed down some now decidedly slippy tracks and reached the waterfall. After standing in the shallows to admire the torrents of water, I fell elegantly A over T and thus began a game with Elaine imaginatively titled, who can fall over the most (we drew 4 all by the time we got back to the hotel... sadly marks for comedy value of the fall were not taken into consideration!)

Having seen the waterfalls we hesded back. The paths were now treachurous under foot, and some had streams running down the middle of them.

We reached a beautiful beach. Deserted (in the rain... never!), with white sands, palms trees, and clear blue water. As we were now completely wet through we went for a swim in the warm sea fully clothed. You can't get wetter than saturated! It's actually rather liberating... you should try it!

We then faced the 2 hour hike back to the hotel. As we reached the river we had crossed that morning, we discovered that it was now an impassable rapid.. rather alarming until we found another route.

(Note to anyone going... there is the BEST EVER chocolate muffins in a restaurant in the road in the top picture. They are baked to order, and full of runny gooey molten chocolate inside. mmmmmm!)

The next day the weather was better. Drizzly and overcast... but the sun came out later. We spent the day on a Caipirniha Cruise (a lethal cocktail), snorkling in clear sparkling waters, and singing on the way back to the Island. It 's the first of December. The thought of being in a bikini on the First of December is still a bit odd!

At one point we were joined by a local guy in his canoe, with a random dog. He hung onto the side of our boat and had to keep bailing out his canoe with an empty ice cream box. he also took a bit of shine to Darren!!!

The evenings in Isla Grande were a bit random - H had a n impromptu Salsa lesson in the rain in the middle of the street by a Brazilian Man called William Wallace (who's he kidding!) who fancied himself as Patrick Swayzee in Dirty Dancing - Spaghetti arms, this is my space, this is your space etc...! Poor H!

We had 2 great nights out in Isla Grande, and made good friends with Darren, Elaine and Andrea from the other group. It seems odd that our time on this GAP trip will end in 2 days time!!

The One in the Shopping Mall

Pretty much as it says. Curitba is a huge city full of skyscrapers and shopping malls.

The weather has turned and with a day to kill, we did what women do best - SHOP!

Off to ilha Grande for 3 days on a paradis island tomorrow - can´t wait!

The One with 3 Countries and a Ride in a Chopper

Despite arriving sweaty and greasy after a long night on the bus we were straight out the door again to see the Brazilian side of the wonderful Iguassu Falls.

After deciding a ride in a helicopter was a bit extravagent, and that we wouldn´t do it, we completely changed our minds when we saw the chopper coming in and landing.

Feeling like stars (but not looking like them!), we boarded the chopper and took off at great speed towards the rising mists of the waterfalls. All you could see was jungle, and the river meandering through.

The falls were spectacular - how can you describe them! I don´t know what was more exciting, my first view of them from above or the trip in the helicopter itself.

We spent the rest of the day walking through the walkways on the Brazilian side of the falls. Dodging Quatis which popped out of bins, or almost ran across your feet, and marvelling at water in motion at every turn. Hundreds of photos taken!

We then popped over the border to Paraguay for a bit of cheap shopping. H and I purchased some ipod speakers between us and can now pump up the tunes in our hotel room!

That evening we went to a show of South American song and dance. Which included an amazing peruvian dance with a guy on stilts dressed as a condor, and semi clad muscle bound Brazilian men performing the Capoeira, a marshal arts/gymnastic style dance (its been one of the BBC adverts) For the men there was the samba with perfectly toned ladies in thongs and bras shaking their stuff. A great evening out.

Not satisfied with 2 countries in one day, we made it three as we headed across the border to Argentina and even got a stamp in our passport this time!

The falls are even more spectacular from here, and we walked across wooden walkways to the viewing platform over the Devils Throat Falls. Sheer volumes of water tumbling over the cliff face. I think waterfalls are my most favourite thing!

With more walks and even more photos, we headed down to the river for a boat ride up close and personal.

We negotiated the swarm of yellow and green butterflies, which look like autumn leaves in a breeze, donned our life jackets and held on for dear life as the boat sped up the river tilting and swerving and eventually taking us right under 2 of the waterfalls drenching us to the skin. Luckily we soon dried off in the 42 degree heat!

We headed off the next day on an all day bus ride to Curitiba

The One with the Snorkel

With the annoyance of finding that my Credit Card had been fraudulently used, and then with heat, bites, hair that looks like Monica in the Bahamas, and no phone cards in the whole of Bonito, I did not get off to a good start with the town.

However, we headed off for a day of snorkelling and looking at fish! On the way we saw two giant Ant eaters ambling through a field like giant rugs on legs! A rare sight indeed!

In the ever becoming wetsuit, (H had a frog in the foot of hers!) we headed to the edge of the jungle for a walk through the mosi ridden area, stopping to spot the alien looking Tapir on the way, and narrowly avoiding a rattlesnake!

With the lesson on breathing given we went for our first float (we can´t kick, only use our arms in the river) through the crystal clear waters, looking at the fish and trying not to hum "under the sea" from the little mermaid! We also spotted a caymen eyeing us eagerly from the bank side. Great!

The current carries you down stream, and at parts we had to negotiate rapids, and going under a fallen tree, as well as fish that nibble your legs. They are cleaning fish and like mosquito bites. I must have had too many for them to tak eon as they barely touched me!

Eventually the small tributary leads to the big river, where there is a noticeable drop in temperature,a dn you swim the last section.

After an amazing lunch it was time to snooze in the bus again on the way back to the hotel.

Our second day in Bonito was decidely lazy, and we then caught a night bus to Foz de Iguassu

The One in the Jungle

After a brief soujourn in Santa Cruz - not much to say about it except nice Ice Cream - we took the night train to Brazil.

A new stamp in the passport, a new currency to get to grips with, and searing heat and mosquitos. We were picked up and driven to our base in the heart of the Pantanal.

Bus journeys now send me instantly to sleep, but I awoke to amazing scenery - green lush marsha dn forest with a large brown river cutting across it like an open wound.

Even before we reached our home for the 2 nights we were turning into David Attenborough and snapping away at the wildlife all around us. We saw Jaribu birds the red throated Storks which are the symbol of the Pantanal, Capivaras - the largest rodent which look like a cross betweena moomen and a giant Guinea Pig, and hundreds of Caymen which lazed by the river side and smiled for the camera.

We went for a walk in the firest, and saw little mroe than mosquitos, apart from some footprints - anteaters, and ocelots footprints to be precise.

Our home for the two nights were a series of hammocks in a mosi proofed room. That said I am now starting to look like I have bubonic plague I have been bitten so much. Time for new insect repellant methinks!

Day 2 and who needs an alarm clock. You awake afetr a surprisngly comfortable nights sleep in a hammock to a raucaus cacophony of birdsong.

We went for another walk and this time were not disappointed. Giant Otters, Howler Monkeys, normal sized otters, and red macaws to anme a few. Plus the amazing toucan. I will never get bored of looking at that bird.

We went Piranha fishing. I eventually caught 4 (and managed to accidentely slap the back of H with one much to her pleasure!) and I even had one for my lunch! (not much meat i´m afraid to say!)




We had a siesta in a hammock, looked at more monkeys, Iguanas, a shy Quati (raccon style animal) and had lunch - I´m beginning to enjoy jungle life!

After lunch time for more horseriding. My horse this time did not like to be over taken so we trotted a fair bit! Robert - new to horseriding - was given the smallest horse, and having the longest legs looked rather silly on it!


Exhaustedly, we showered and went to bed.

The third day we went for a boat ride down the River Miranda. We were invited to go swimming, but after seeing a huge Caymen splash into the water I decided to pass!

We caught the bus to the small town of Bonito, where our hotel is all decked out for Christmas. it seems so wrong in such heat!

The One with the Long Face

After a lazy morning, we boarded another bus for the journey to Sucre. A beautiful city full of white colonial buildings, and with a main square reminiscent of Vera Cruz in Mexico, with Palm Trees and fountains.

We were in an amazing 4* hotel (will I ever be able to hostel it again?!), and even got upgraded to a room with a bath - the bath was the size of a postage stamp, but it was a bath none the less!

We had a whistle stop tour of the city - including a trip to the Dinosaur park, Cal Arko - home to the worlds largest collection of Dinosaur Footprints. The footprints are on a wall upright ar a 70 degree angle formed when the Nazca and South American Tetonic plates collided.

The footprints themselves require a bit of imagination. The Ankylosaur was wearing size nine nike trainers I think, and the titanosaur was tip toeing, - that said I know a couple of certain 4 year olds who would have loved the full sized models, and so I took lots of pictures!

From here we headed to a viewing square where you get a panoramic of the whole of Sucre, to a run down castle, home to a romantic orphan loving prince and princess, and the mini Champs De Elysses park that the prince built to stop his missus going back to France all the time.

This included a small fake Eiffel Tour, an arch which if you squint could be the Arc de Triumphe, and a tiny grubby boating circuit which under no circumstances could be described as the Seine, and yet is. I reckon the Princess didn´t like the boat ride to France.

The next day was the day of the long faces. We were going horseriding, but also were going to have to say goodbye to Fi, Yvonne and Jimmy.

My horse had an afinity with the south end of Jimmy´s horse, and kept his nose permanantly under Jimmy´s horses tail. If I slowed him down, he would speed up, and only a few quick reactions on my part, stopped my horse from having a rather dirty nose.

We moved through the city - rubbish was everywhere, and dumped in ditches where the pigs and dogs rummage through the scraps. We passed through a street where they were selling potatoes in big blue hessein sacks, the women in their trilby style hate over their long dark plaits and with large pinafore aprons, starring at us. I´m not sure if they were morre surprised to see people so white, or horses!

There were dogs everywhere, yapping at the horses, from the top of unfinished houses, or running madly backwards and forwards along the pavement, and of course there were little children running out of their houses to shout Hola!

Soon we were more in the countryside with rolling hills, farm land and the odd house. We headed along a track before dismounting and leading the horses down hill (walkign like John Wayne), to the dry river bed. We left the horses to graze, and walked up the dry river bed towards the 7 waterfalls.

Waterfall is a bit of a loose term. Small dribble, supplied by piped water would be more apt.

That said the final pool was 4m deep, and had murky green water, which in the mid day sun was very inviting, and we sat dipping out toes, and eating our lunch before going for a dip.

On the way back to town, we passed an area where the farmers were drying their corn. Yvonnes horse took a munch (with a large gasp from the farm hand) and walked slowly on like shaun the sheep munching his hay. Very amusing.

That night we went out and partied in style until 4am in a small club which played everything from 80´s, 90´s to modern bolivian music. To be fair after a couple of drinks you can dance to anything.

And then there were eight.

We miss you guys!

The One in the Mines

A beautiful sunny day, we headed en mass, sans Irish, to the Potosi Mint, for a rather dull tour, by a pompous guide who was both a misogynist and tried to make everybody feel stupid. Talk about diminishing your tip! We arrived an hour into his tour (through no fault of our own, as even the signs downstairs did not display a start time).

For such a pompous man he was also a terrible tour guide - he managed to lose us twice!

Anyway, i did manage to fathom that the silver was melted into blocks, rolled through 12 stages of Mule driven wheels, cut into circles and manually stamped with the denomination. I also leartn that the pirates "pieces of eight" refer to the 8 reals coin! Somethingto mention when it goes quiet in the snug!

To be honest the building in itself was well worth the visit, and although I´m no architect I can appreciate that a curved brick ceiling looks good!

During the tour we heard dynamite going off in the street - enough to make any person jumpy - and as we left the building we walked into the middle of a protest. The students were revolting!!!! Apparantely the teachers don´t really teach and tell them to look things up on the internet and they were protesting trying to get real lessons! We tried to avoid the mad throng and the explosions that went with them!

In the afternoon we met for our tour of the Cerro Rico (Rich mountain) Mine. We went first to get togged up, and looked fantastic in a mixture of red and yellow shell suits, hard hats, head torches and wellies!

At the base of the hill we stopped to buy the miners presents. For just over one pound we got coca leaves, crackers, dynamite and fuse, and cigarettes made from eucalyptus, coca, tobacco and cinnamon)

Boys start working at the mine aged 12 and the mortality rate is high. You could well believe it as we made our way in through one of the 10,00 entrances avoid vast drops into nothingness.

The mine is full of all sorts of minerals - Silver, Zinc, iron and Fools Gold, and you earn more dependign on where you decide to mine. The lower in the mine you are the more money you get, but the more dangeropus it is the less time you will live.

The miners also "worship" the devil - although I´m not sure worship is the right word. Statues of the Devil are all over the mine, and he is respected as a fellow miner as he is associated with the underworld, and also fertility. The Miners leave him offerings of alcohol, cigarettes and coca in the hope that they will be fruitful in their mining - they are paid on commission.

Getting about the mine was tought work. We had to crawl and wiggle up through small holes, with drops into the abyss all over the place. Who´d have thought that a fear of heights could kick in underground.

We found some miners, to hand our goods to. One was 17 and had been working in the mine for 5 years since the mine took his father. His mother is also dead, and he provides for his family, going to school in the evenings after an eight hour shift down the mine. Puts things in perspective.

With a new view on how lucky we are in the UK, we headed back to the hotel. That evening we murdered a few tunes in the local Kareoke, and tried to keep up with the Spanish on a couple of Bolivian classics!

The One with the Perspective

After a train trip to the small town of Uyuni, we began another 3 day adventure into the Salt Flats, by bumpy 4 wheel drive. Our jeep was made up of H, myself, Jimmy and Martha, and our driver, who had only 2 tapes of bolivian music to play, but also played one song over and over again. You´d find youself humming a random tune before questioning - what the hell is this music!!!

Day One

We headed into the large open expanse of the Slat flats, passing tiny mud brick houses, with women washing their clothes in the stream, and Llamas grazing. The brilliant blue sky was broken only by the odd fluffy white cloud (I think its the one from the Expedia advert following us about!)

Our first stop was the Valley of the Rocks - guess what was there! We spent a while clambouring and spotting faces with the boys adamant that they could run the 100m sprint and climb a rock to get in a group photo set on timer on my camera. We have photos of Jimmy and Roberts bum as they try and get there.... some might say it was their better side!

With dusk setting we reached the Laguna Colorade (red lake), but with poor visibility and a wind picking up we headed to our lodging, with a promise to return tomorrow.

Our lodgings for the night boasted "Quality and Elegance for you" on the sign - debateable use of these words, I feel, as we didn´t even have running water!

Day Two

4.30am start (eugh!), and out in time to watch the sun rise over the sillhouetted hills.

The landscape is arid and rocky - as I imagine the landscape of Mars would be, and our first stopwas certainly something out of science fiction. The view was of large areas of steam rising out of the middle of nowhere, and with the sun rising behind it casting shadows and sillhouettes of tourists throught the steam you could believe that you were in themiddle of an alien invasion, and this the crash site of the UFO, the Geysers and the bubbling pools of mud were very impressive.

We stopped for breakfast at Laguna Polques, where a thermal pool at the edge of the lake sat invitingly in the morning sun. Impolite to refuse the invitation Terry, Jimmy, Robert adn I sat in the warm water, admiring the sun twinkling over the large lake, spotted with Flamingo´s - and it was not even 7am! Pure Bliss!

From here to Laguna Verde - (Green lake) which, imaginatively, is in fact both green and a lake. The arsenic, and other minerals give it its colour, and the water was so still there was a perfect reflection of the rolling hills behind it in the water.

Back to Laguna Colorade, and today the red in the water is clearly visible. We sat for ages admiring the flamingoes, and trying (and in my case failing) to get the perfect photo of a flamingo in flight!

Then back to arid landscape and the Pampa Sidoli, to see the Dali - esque Arbol de Piedra (Stone Tree - can you guess what it is yet?), and then past more lakes, a random Andean Fox, amountain of 7 colours (which were all beige!), the ollague Volcano, the border of Chile, and views of dust tornados sweeping the plains. Each sight more amazing than the last.

To top it all off, the view of the stars when we went to bed was amazing!

Day Three

Someone had been partying all night, and there was evidence of this the next morning - it wasn´t any of us and I was just praying that it hadn´t been our drivers!

The stars now made the 3.30am (new meaning to stupid o´clock) worthwhile, especially as now they had moved we could clearly see the Southern Cross twinkling above us.

A the sun started to rise, we watched in awe out of the jeep window. The sky turns every colour of the rainbow, from the red at the horizon right through tothe violet sky still with twinkling stars. The hills turn a lilac colour and as the sun rise go darker and sillhouette against the sky. Photos and words just can´t do it justice but this morning was one I will never forget.

We stopped in the middle of the salt flats for the moment when the sun poked its nose over the brink of the horizon. The Salt Flats in themselves are a wonder. You could believe that you were at one of the poles, the white expanse goes on forever. A polar bear would not look out of place here, apart from the fact that it is warm.

The feeling of being insignificant in such a desolate place is very real, as is the absolute silence.

We stood in wonder for a long time, admiring the shadows cast, and the tesolation of cracks in the salt, almost like a lino of hexagons.

Our next stop was Incahuasi or Isla de Pescasdo (Fish Island - named after its shape), which stands in the middle of the flats and is covered with Giant Cacti. We breakfasted and then spent ages mucking about with the use of perspective to take some silly photos. Below are some of my favourites:

Finally we headed to Hotel de Sal Playa Blanca, a hotel made of salt, and then to see how the locals refine the salt for cooking.

Our last stop of the day was at a Train Graveyard, where with silly pictures on the brain the boys re-enacted some Indiana Jones Style Action Shots!

The day ended with a 7 hour bus ride to Potosi on the bumpiest road in history. My teeth are now all loose in my head!