Monday, July 30, 2007
The One with the Zip Lines
Having not had quite enough jungle time already, Sam and I head off to the highly recommended Gibbon Experience for 3 days zipping in the jungle.
We climb in a hardy land rover which takes us over a muddy river and promptly gets stuck in the mud. If we can not get it out we face a 7 hour muddy hike over the hills to get to the jungle. With this incentive, the team pitches together, and after nearly an hour of retrieving stones from the river to fill the muddy ruts, the van eventually makes it up the first incline. We are already covered in thick red mud and dripping with sweat... this makes Map's hiking in Chiang Mai child's play!
After stopping to push our van a couple more times, we eventually reach the village and begin our 1 hour hike into the jungle, over rivers and up through Bamboo Groves, to where we receive our harnesses and marvel at a little black Asiatic Bear nosing in the undergrowth. (He's an orphan who's been rescued).
The Gibbon Experience is only 2 years old, although the french owner Geoff has been doing conservation work in the Laos National parks for 10 years - and it works totally on word of mouth. Geoff has asked for it not to be put in the guidebooks. It's success speaks for itself... it's full everyday and you have to book in advance. We were very jammy to get a last minute cancellation.
They help the local communities by doing things like ploughing their fields, and hence stop the Slash and Burn practices in the area. The Treehouses and zip lines themselves are unbelievable. It's one thing to even imagine such a place, but a total other to try and put it into practice, and the result just takes your breath away... even more so as it would seem so impossible to achieve.
We walk the 10 minutes or so up to Treehouse One (our home for the night) and attach our zip lines for the first time. It's a whole world of trust stepping into the void for the first time, but an exhilariting feeling, and the view from our treehouse is magnificient (as is the construction itself!)
Four of our party will be staying inTreehouse 3, so along with our guides we zip out over 4 or 5 more ziplines. Some 100-150m high above the canopy. I did have a wobbly tummy and legs on several occasions, but the feeling, the view, and everything about it is totally indescribable.
At Treehouse 2 we leave the guys to make their way down to their home for the night, and we head back, and have a cold shower (with views down to the ground below!) and then dinner which is prepared for us.
I don't like talking about toilet activities, but there is something very rewarding about doing a number 2 from such a height. That's all i'm going to say!
The next day we awake early to the most amazing sound - the gibbons singing. We Zip off in search of them but they do a runner (probably because we have the loudest dutch guy in the world in our party "WHERE ARE THE GIBBONS... WHY DO THEY GO AWAY?!")
We chill until 10am, have a second breakfast (mmm sticky rice and cabbage for breakfast), and then head off for a mammoth walk - zip - walk to treehouse 5 the most isolated treehouse. The view as we come through the undergrowth on the zip line and see treehouse 5 for the first time will take some beating! Luckily Sam got a little video of it!. Check out the view from the Number 5 loo (above!)
We have lunch here (I feel a bit bad relaxing while our guide dashes off to retrieve a big kettle of hot water and a fully cooked dinner from somewhere!) and then we have a 2 -3 hour hike back. which is mainly "up up up" is totally muddy, and very precarious. I am a whole new colour of muddy brown by the time we get home, and have had to remove a few leeches (Tiger Balm is wonderful stuff) on the way.
This evening, completely shattered, we concoct a chocolate fondue by mixing ovaltine with condensed milk and heating it over a candle before dipping fresh pineapple in it. Ingenious (and a welcome change from the sticky rice!)
Day three, and I'm awoken by the little guide say "you wanna go walk?" - the gibbons are singing again, and today we can see them from our treehouse in the trees in the distance. Fabulous.
We zip closer, but they move on again, but we are happy that we've seen them.
Rather then rest up for our potential 7 hour hike, Carrie, Vicky Sam and I decide to go on one last 40 minute circuit on the zip lines, and come back covered in mud and oil from the lines, but totally exhilarated, and disappointed about leaving. Every inch of my body aches... especially my stomach muscles (which i worked out was caused trying to stop myself falling every five seconds!), but every bit of the pain is worth it.
We head out back to the road and start the walk. I am slow, full of cold, and not 100% sure that I would make the 7 hour hike, so imagine my pleasure at the sound of upcoming engines!!! The jeeps had made it through! So now we could enjoy the adventure of jeeps on off roading style mud all the way back to Houay Xai.
Possibly the best experience of my trip so far.
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
The One on the Elephant
Day one and eleven of us set off, rather cramped in the back of a songtheow. Our guide is a little Thai guy called Map, and he has a fabulous laugh, and his English is fantastic. Our first stop is a market where Map buys our food, and where we get accosted by local women trying to sell us embroidered water bottle holders (flash back to Peru) which I buy as they are generally very useful, and also assorted hats, shaped like witches hats and multi coloured, which I do not buy... although was tempted for mere comedy value!
We head on, through fields of corn, past little villages, and pull up at a hill tribe Karen Village, which is both our lunch stop and the start of our trekking.
The village is very basic, bamboo huts which house up to three families. Work on the farms here is collective, for the good of the village, and each family works in rotation - two from every house work each day with the remainder staying behind to look after the children and do the cooking. They call these families "chocolate families" as they are all mixed together.
The young people here are expected to marry aged 13-15, and they all have children young, and lots of them. The marriages are arranged by the families, and before marriage the medicine man kills a chicken to see whether the marriage will be a successful one.
It's funny, however, that these very basic houses, still have massive aerials outside. I saw at least one with a TV - the essentials seem to be all wrong - a TV, when you don't have plumbing into the house!
Animals roam free: ducks with ducklings, Chickens and chicks, Pigs and piglets, and dozens of dogs walk through the muddy yards.
We set off on the trek, see another hill tribe village with an older style of house, and watch the boys play a version of Volleyball, where the ball can be put over the net by everything but the hand. This seems to be an exhausting and very skilled game!
Now we move through the fields of corn, and start to ascend. The air is warm and humid, and we're all soon dripping. By now we've left the fields behind and seem to be in a forest of bamboo. This seems to be a real utility here - probably aided by the fact it grows at a rate of about 15cm a day! It's used for building, cooking, and lots more besides.
Some of the walking is a little hairy. The drops to the right of the path are steep with only trees to break your fall, and I certainly did not want to become the ball in a downhill, tree version of pinball.
The rain starts, but thankfully we arrive at our basic bamboo lodgings before the downpour. The washing facilities are the stream outside, where some members of our group catch some crabs, which Map then cooks and eats. We spend a pleasant evening relaxing and playing cards and getting to know one another.
Day Two: Last night we slept on a bamboo "stage" with mosquito nets, which sadly did not seem to stop the infestation of ants which bit us, and seemed to take up lodging in our hair. I have a quick wash in the stream, and after breakfast we set off once more. Luckily the sun is shining, and we have a pretty walk through woodland zig zagging constantly through streams, and warned constantly by Map "be careful, velly slippy".
To this end I have a bamboo can to support me, and I'm very glad of it, as the rain last night has indeed made the muddy track treacherously slippery, and we still have drops to our side. At one point we even have to head down a bamboo ladder, to carry on the journey, and we then end up at our showering facilities... a waterfall.
It was very cold, but very refreshing - a massage and shower in one, and it least I was able to get the ants out of my hair!
Pressing on, the walk sees a series of ups and downs, and the legs are beginning to tire, but every so often you get a glimpse of the jungle from a high point.... tree covered hills as far as the eye can see, and everything seems worthwhile.
I forgot to mention, that after the second village yesterday, we gained a member, a stray white dog, who I have called Bob. He followed us religiously for the rest of the trip, and got a lot of attention from everyone.
Finally, after a particularly slippery "down" section, we get the chance to rest our feet for the rest of the day when we board our transportation to the Darang village... ELEPHANTS!
Ours is called Ting and is 10 years old. We start on the seat (our Mahout on his mobile phone sat on the head of Ting!) and then he gets down and lets me ride on her head with my legs behind her ears! Their hair is quite scratchy!
We had some very naughty nelly's. The one in front kept pulling up the corn from the field and sucking up muddy puddles to squirt the people on their backs!
We arrived at the Darang Village and headed out almost immediately for a Farang and Local Children mixed team footie game. Knowing my sporting prowess I thought it only fair on the others that I was team photographer... the kids were so cute!
That night we were treated to dancing and singing from the girls of the village (and had to join in a dance), and were then invited to sing them a song back. Visions of Peru come flooding back and I lead the group in the Hokey Cokey. A safe bet when lots of different nations are present. (Even if the American girl I've nicknamed Sour puss on account of her happy smiley face would insist on singing Hokey pokey!)
Day Three: Woken by the cockerels, and set off on a tour of the village before walking for about an hour down the road. We were then picked up and taken to the river for our bamboo rafting.
The river was less than inviting, muddy coloured and scummy surfaced, and the bamboo rafts were less than water tight, but that did not stop a bit of a competitive water fight between our raft and sour puss's. so we arrived at the other end a little soggy for our journey back to Chiang Mai, and my uninviting prospect of a night on a bus to Bangkok to pick up my new passport tomorrow.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
The One with the Scooter and the Long Necks
On arriving, we knew that chilling here for a few days was definately on the cards. It's so beautiful. Our guest house was on this river which came complete with very ricketty bambo bridges. We sat here one afternoon marvelling at the scooters that tried (and succeeded) to traverse these bridges, and to watch cows wander down the road. In the morning the clouds graze the tops of the surrounding hills.
There is not much to do in Pai itself, and if you do want to see some of the surrounding countryside you need to hire a scooter. I was very wary about this. I have seen way too many tourists with injuries from these things, and personally don't agree about getting on one of these things in anything less than full leathers, but there was no alternative. There are no cars to hire here, and thankfully, not much traffic other than the odd elephant or goat, so we set off carefully, to view the beautiful surroundings of Rice Paddies, Mountains and waterfalls.
After a hard day scooting we relaxed in a swimming pool, in a farmers garden, surrounded by Rice Paddies... surreal, but pure bliss.
Relaxation is the key in Pai. I had my second Thai massage (the first in Phuket!). These seem to be a mixture of pain and pleasure. You bend in ways you just didn't know were possible, and at one point the little Thai lady stood on the backs of my legs and walked her hands up my back! But you certainly feel good afterwards and for about 2 quid you really can't complain!
Pai even has it's own cinema - the Cinema Pairadiso (everything here plays on the name Pai - there's Apple Pai, Pai in teh Sky... etc) This "cinema" is literally a house of rooms with comfy sofas and you hire a dvd to watch! A great way to spend a lazy evening.
Yesterday, we took a trip to Mae Hong Son near the Burmese border. Our driver stopped us off at lots of places on the way including a rather unimpressive fish cave, more Wats, and a very poor market, but the reason for the trip was to see the Long Neck Women and the Big Ear Women.
It's hard to know where I stand on this. These women obviously make their money from the tourist trade, and you buy things from their stalls to make yourself feel better about wanting to take photographs, but I still felt really guilty about it!
I got to hold some of the brass rings and they are REALLY heavy!
The big earred women put larger and larger rings in their ears (like some punk influenced teenagers back home!)
Anyway... it was a bit touristy, but I am so gald I got to see it.
Sunday, July 15, 2007
The One with Adventure Cooking
Sam's been here for a few days already, and is settled in a really laid back guest house called Julie's . We chill and catch up and then head around the Wat's of Chiang mai... of which there are many. The main one, Wat Bupharim, was slightly unusual.... do you see anyone familiar other than Buddha?!
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
The One in with the Tuk Tuks
I manage to get from the airport to the travellers mecca of Khao San Road, and after several recommendations, get settled in at a really nice place, which is also very cheap, just around the corner.
As I sit chatting to some people at dinner, I manage to invite myself out with them, adn we head to the seedy heights of Patpong... the home of a night market full of fakes, and certain less savoury things, which i will not go into but describe simply as "eye opening"
The next morning, and it's off to do business with the British Consulate. As I have extended my trip, I need a new passport (mine is running out). The disappointing news is that it will take 2 weeks which means that my plans of meeting up with my mate Sam (that i met in NZ) are well and truly scuppered.
Chin up Kate, and deal with it.
So, I head to Jim Thompsons House - an ex CIA guy who did great work for the thai silk trade,a dn who mysteriously disappeared in the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia.
Next up, a trip down the river on a boat, and a visit to the temple of Wat Arun. The temple is beautiful, and decorated with broken donated pottery.
Over the river I head to Wat Po, home of the fantastic reclining Gold Buddha. It's so big you can hardly get it all in a picture. It's feet are inlaid with mother of pearl, and it's just breathtaking.
With enough culture for one night, I wander down the neon lit Khao San Road and do a bit of cheap shopping - fake crocs for two pounds... you can't go wrong (although sadly you can, as it turns out my feet are allergic to them!!)
The next day, and I head off to the Grand Palace - home of the Emerald Buddha. This is simply breathtaking, and covered in gold, with huge statues of monster looking men guarding the doorways. What I can't seem to understand is that if Buddhism is about peace, and living serenely and simple lives with few possessions, then why are the temples so ornate???
I set off in the rain, to find the Golden Mount, and turn down several tuk tuks en route, arriving drenched. But it did mean I passed a wonderful scene of monks in their saffron robes escaping the rain and standing having a chat in an alley all holding umbrellas! One for the memory bank.
What stands out for me most about Bangkok, however, are the tuk tuks.
These are like motorbike tricycles and they all drive like nutters. They're also a fairly cheap way of getting about, but this does involve haggling, and remembering to specify that you don't, under any circumstances, want to go to their brothers sisters aunts shop. At one point this involved me being fobbed off into 4 tuk tuks before one agreed to take me where I actually wanted to go.
To be honest. Driving in a tuk tuk is exhilarting, but I must say that I did fear for my life on more than one occasion!!!
Monday, July 9, 2007
The One in Phuket
Tony had said he'd pick me up, as it's "not far"... it's over 2 hours... the equivalent of picking someone up from Cardiff and taking them back to Watford, and yet out here, distances seem different. It really isn't far at all!
Tony and his wife Liisa kindly put me up, and encouraging me to stay I find that I'm there for almost a week! It's pure bliss. My first night, I chill out in a local bar, and listen to Tony play with his band.... a far cry from langkawi that's for sure!
But it's not all pure laziness... I go back to school and try and remember a bit of physics and maths in order to complete my PADI - Open Water Certificate - ie qualify as a scuba diver.
I do struggle a bit with the physics... but lucky Tony was a physics teacher!
As usual... I also manage to make a fool of myself in the pool a bit. Trying to inflate my BCD on a button... and rolling over backwards every time I try and hover in the water. But as luck would have it it's only me and Chris my teacher in the pool, so I don't have any other students to embarrass myself in front of.
On day 2 of the course I have my first trip out to sea! We go to an island called Racha Yai and do 3 dives off it's coast.
The world underneath the water is AMAZING. It's such an honour and priveledge to be able to get so close to so many fish, and on my first dive I even see an Octopus, which drains of colour as we go nearer.
I see Moray eels, pufferfish, porcupine fish, Moorish idols, boxfish, and to be honest too many to mention. I come to the surface exhilarated, adn I still ahve 2 more dives today. I don't think i'll ever go to an aquarium again. Diving looks like it's going to be a very addictive hobby!
Day 3 and I'm back in the classroom, pass my exam (whoop!) and finish my training. I am now theoretically a diver, and just 2 open water dives stand between me and qualification.
The next day Tony and Liisa join me on the Excaliber II and we head back to Racha Yai. The weather is not so good and the water is a bit choppy. My first dive is not so great. My bouancy is a bit skew whiff, adn when my tank gets lighter my legs float up to the surface.
That said... I did see a cuttlefish. Which was sooooooo cool. I am never having a budgie.
My last dive is infinately better, and to top is all off I see a Stone fish. I wish I could describe him, but take my word for it, they are fab!
And then, it's back to shore, and I sign the paperwork and join the club!
The next day, Tony and I do a tour of the island. We go up to the Big Buddha on the hill... it's still being finished, but will be immense when it's done. What's more, it'll be visible from all over the island (and probably space!)
Next up is Wat Chalong - a buddhist temple. In one of the shrines people knelt and shook a box of what looked like pick up sticks until one fell out. they look at the number on the stick and then go and get the corressponding bit of paper that tellsthem a fortune. Here they also stick gold leaf on some monk statues. Standing as an outsider looking into other religions is fascinating.
We pop to Tesco's (I kid you not), and then on to Phuket town, and a trip to the On On Hotel which was used in the film the Beach.
As we drive around Tony and I talk about the differences between home and Thailand. The utes that zip about with 15 or so people in the back, headscarves blowing in the wind. The mobile food sellers, who drive a motorbike with a cooking area attached (Stop me and Fry One), the fact that Coke in Thai looks like the word Ian, and the bottled gasoline lit up by the side of the road at night as the service stations have shut, and which look like bottles of white wine or Rose.... could be a nsaty mistake!
We head round the island, taking in the beaches of Kata, Karon and the rather more gourdy Patong - which looks a bit like the equivalent of Magaluf.
The next day, Tony and Liisa take me to see an elephant shrine. I'm not sure if it's buddhist or hindu but it was full of elephants. all around the circle of the shrine, people had left elephants. Dressed up ones like the one below, wooden ones, stone ones, trunks up or down. It was quite a sight!
Sadly, this also marked the end of my time in Phuket. at this time of year the water is a bit choppy to get from Phi Phi to "The Beach" beach, so that will have to wait until next time.... as, in the words of Arnie "i'll be back".
Tony and Liisa... thank you so much for having me, and for all the trouble you went to organising my Padi and ferrying me about. I had a wonderful time. Please stay in contact. x
Sunday, July 1, 2007
The One "All by Myself!"
This photo pretty much sums up all the emotions I was feeling at that moment!