The One with the Elf Ears

The following day and we made our way by bus to Wellington - the Capital of New Zealand.

We decided to embrace our geekiness and go on the Lord of the Rings Film location tour the next day. Our bus consisted of a family of Americans, and a brazilian called Thomas, who was pretty quiet, but who we run into later in the South Island, and provides much amusement in the future. The benefits of writing this in hindsight!

Our tour guide had a habit of waffling, and asks us if anyone needs to be back on time - this turns out to be not because of all teh extra information he would be giving us but because he rambles and goes off the point. A lot... and to make matters worse, tries to argue with us that you could ONLY score 2 points in a rugby Union match. Does he know who he's contending with?

Anyway, we went to the film location of the Tumbling scene, when Frodo and chums first exit the Shire - and even having only watched the films once I recognise it ... at least when I see the stills! We try and re enact some of the stills for photos, but (thankfully!?) my feet are not large or hairy enough!

From here down to the Miramar Peninsula and stopped for a hot chocolate at the Chocolate Fish Cafe, famous watering Hole of the stars, sadly Orlando had not left hsi number for me.

From here to the outside of a Stone Quarry which we could not enter but which was the set of both Minas Tirith and Helms Deep - more use of stills from the film.

Our lunch stop was at Rivendell - and whilst the food was awesome, this set proved to be possibly the most disappointing of all. It needed all your imagination as there was nothing recognisable there at all!. We did manage to spot THE VERY TREE that Orlando (swoon) Bloom had all his publicity shots taken in front of. I think the photo here speaks for itself!

Next we headed to Isengard, more computer generated imagery needed - " that tree over there, is this one here...", and finally to the Great River Anduin.

To be honest while the sites themselves were fairly unimpressive, we did get some really good geeky info, so beware if you watch any of the LoTR films with me henceforth! Here's a couple of tasters until I get home:

• Wormtongue has no eyebrows
• The statues of the two kings are modelled on Vigo Mortesens two grandfathers so that when Aragorn talks of "the faces of his ancestors" it's actually true!
• The sound of the troll is made up of a lions roar and a walrus roar from the Wellington zoo. One for breathing in and one for breathing out!

The next day we headed to the impressive Te Papa Museum - and experienced an earthquake (well a manufactured one) which was of the same scale as the one we slept through. I truly am a heavy sleeper!

Tomorrow we are off to South Island!

The One with Mount Doom

With it just back to H and I again, we had a day to ourselves to plan the rest of the NZ trip, before catching the bus down to Turangi just south of Taupo.

This time as I headed through Taupo, it was not covered in a layer of cloud and rain and I could see snow capped mountains in the distance. I think summer has finally arrived here!

The next day we set off at stupid o'clock to do the Tongariro Crossing. An 18km hike over some volcanoes with breathtaking scenery!

As we set off it was cloudy and, following a challenge by Milly, we decided it was time to pen our second version of Amarillo since we left home. Below are our efforts... Milly your turn!

Is this the Way to Aotearoa?

When the day is dawning,

The fellowship wake up yawning.

Another day's walk,

Tongariro, minus the bad orcs.

As we start the journey,

Mount Doom's on our right.

If you see the Nazgul,

Just watch H and Kate take flight

Is this the way to Aotearoa?

I've taken so many photos I will bore ya

Dreaming dreams of Aotearoa

The land of the long white cloud.

There's a young girl screaming

As she plummets metres from the ceiling

Of the sky tower

Jumping off it sapped all her will power

Then there was zorbing,

The giant gerbil ball

Caving and abseiling

No time for sleep at all...

Is this the way to Aotearoa?
I've taken so many photos I will bore ya
Dreaming dreams of Aotearoa
The land of the long white cloud.

By this time the cloud had burnt off and we were walking in brilliant sunshine under a blue sky. The power of song eh!

Before long we had reached the first climb of the day - the Devil's Staircase - personally if the devil is involved in all the deadly sins, I know for a fact he would not be bothered to climb this and would have installed a Stanna Stairlift - it was a bit steep!

We struggled on for the 40 minute rocky climb, which was well worth all the effort and the shaky legs at the top. The view was of the valley, clear at first and then covered in cloud stretching to snow capped mountains in the distance, and on the other side, Mount Ngauruhoe - a large black conical volcano better known as Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings!

From here across the south crater (easy walking) and then up the Red Crater Ridge. Although no where as steep as the Devils Staircase it was just as hard going, as you were walking on scree (one step forward two steps back) and at the top you also had to contend with trying your hardest not getting blown off the top into a large drop on either side!

I did the first bit down on my bottom ( a rather good anchor I have found!) and then once the wind had dropped slid on my heels the rest of the way, admiring the view of the Emerald pools which we now had. This provided a very picturesque lunch stop.

From here across the Central crater to the Blue lake, and the view back was amazing - snow capped mountains, the red of the Red Crater, the emerald pools and Mount Doom. Amazing.
We though it would be plain sailing from here, but as always, "down" prooves to be just as painful on the legs as "up", and there was a hell of a lot of switchback "down" to contend with.

We did have great views of Lake Taupo in the distance and Lake Rotoaira in the foreground, and even found a patch of snow to be photographed in!

Finally we reached the bottom just 6 hours after starting, and lazed like Iguanas in the sun waiting for the bus back to the hostel.

Boy did I ache the next day!

The One with Turning 26!

Normally I love waking up on my birthday, but this year, despite having Rod in NZ, I felt rather homesick.

That didn't last too long, it was an amazingly sunny day, hot and not a cloud in the sky, I had cards and presents to open (thank you to everyone for sending things over), and Graham and Jo made a special birthday breakfast of bacon and scrambled eggs! Bliss!

We headed into Auckland so Rod could get his last minute souveniers, before H met us, and I decided to do something crazy to celebrate being 26!

That's right, I, Kate Dorsett-Bailey, scared of heights, jumped off the Sky Tower (192m up).

As I said when Rod did it, you are harnessed to the hilt, and your drop is at a controlled speed so it is neither a bungee or a free fall, but I stand by my comment that it is maddness as it was incredibly scary! And those of you who have seen me panic on this trip already, at the Grand Canyon, the mines in Potosi etc, will understand the achievement here!

Thankfully there is no video. I was breathing very quickly at the top, clinging on to anything for dear life, and kept telling the poor guy that I couldn't do it. He suggested that I jumped backwards so I couldn't see the drop! The wind was blowing, and I kept putting him off the count down with endless excuses (maybe when the wind drops...) but eventually he counted me down and I jumped.

I let out a scream from the depths of my boots as I plummeted the 10m or so before the harness caught me and they stop you for a picture. Amazingly I am smiling, but check out the fear in my eye!.

As the fall started again I sreamed some more, whizzing wide eyed past the observatory level (I bet some tourists have some great photos!), past the restaurant (a few people put off their dinners) and eventually half way down stopped screaming and started to enjoy it!

Great fun, but don't think getting off the top would be any easier a second time!

H had to head off for the afternoon, so Rod and I returned to the house and Graham took us to Muriwai beach on the West Coast. There was a large Gannet colony there and we spent ages looking at the birds and their chicks through the Binoculars and taking lots of snaps!

Sadly, Rod had to go back home. I'm not sure who was most sorry about that him or me, but as the weather back home sounds terrible, I guess he wins. So there were a few sad goodbyes at the airport.

That evening I had a lovely birthday dinner, with H, Graham and Jo, with lots of wine and even a birthday cake! A wonderful surprise.

The One with Rod's jump, and the view

New Years Day, and we left late enough to be safe to drive, for our mammoth road trip to Taupo.

An hour down the road I realised that i'd left the cool bag full of food, and more importantly the Tetley's teabgs that my mum had sent me, back at Brian's Place. Doh!

We drove on through the endless windy roads in the pouring rain until we got to Taupo, and treated ourselves with a trip to the cinema, and a dip in the hostel's spa.

The next day, I chilled while Rod went and jumped out of a plane from 12,000 feet (ask to see his DVD!!!). I'm not chicken, I'm going to do mine in Oz!

From here we drove back to Auckland via the beautiful Huka Falls, where we will be staying with Graham and Jo until we leave. We met Graham's son Ant and his fiancee Bea, and then changed rapidly for our special treat in Auckland - Dinner in Orbit at the Sky Tower!

The weather was great, so we arrived in time to watch the sun set, and then sat down at the table to eat a fantastic dinner as the restaurant turned 360 degrees with fantastic views of the city. Especially the sillhouette of Rangitoto with the moon above it reflecting in the sparkling water below.

The One with 2007

So, I've been talking about spending New Year in Gisborne (the first city in the world to see the sun) since I started booking this trip, but due to a monumental mess up on my part (and booking hostels last minute down to Rod!) we actually ended up in a small place called Tokomaru Bay one hour north of Gisborne.

At the time, as we drove through Gisborne I was really cross with myself, but having said that, Gisborne was rammed with people, and as we headed up the coast through amazing scenery I was beginning to feel what a lucky mistake to have made.

Tokomaru Bay is a one shop, one pub, and a few houses dotted along a beach, kind of town, with a lot of Mauri influence, adn the hostel where we stayed - Brian's place - had only a few rooms, so it was a really cosy homely place, with about 10 of us, a veranda that overlooked the whole bay and beach, and the only rule being that you had to take your shoes off inside!

We checked out the pub on the evening of the 30th - locals Honga'd (pressed noses) to each other in welcome, and we could by drinking supplies from the pub to take back to the hostel!

The next day was really chilled out. Playing card games, reading etc, and then Rod borrowed the baord and wetsuit from the hostel to show me his surfing moves. No I didn't go in. Despite being summer it was flipping cold and overcast, so I was resident photographer!

We settled in for New Year playing endless card games including Scummy, and Gin, and then as 2007 came across the threshold we lit sparklers from the fire and watched a few fireworks burst into life on the beach.

At 5.20am I awoke to my alarm, and despite the cloud cover, watched the first sunrise of the year - and actually Tokomaru is even more easterly than Gisborne, so I was still one of the first to watch the sunrise, and even better, as our room looked out over the ocean, I could do it without even getting out of bed!

Happy New Year to you all! May 2007 be full of adventure!

The One with the Volcano

We were up at the crack of dawn and on the boat to White Island, an active Marine Volcano off the coast off the Bay of Plenty.

The weather was bright but windy, and we sat at the back of the boat admiring the early morning sun. Sadly this is also where they sent the sea sick people, so as we progressed along, we were joined by more and more green faces.

As we approached the island we were issued with hard hats, and gas masks, and instructed on what to do in the event of an eruption. Quite an uneasy feeling started to creep over me, when our guide said, "and don't forget to put on your gas masks, as if the falling rock doesn't get you the ash and fumes will!" - great!- thankfully these instructions were not needed

We had a 2 hour walking tour around the island, complete with steaming fumaroles, and a large crater lake, again pouring forth steam. The landscape is like something from Mars, and covered with pressure points - a thin crust seperating us from boiling bubbling mud pools.

Nature at it's wildest.

They used to mine the sulphur here, but a couple of eruptions soon put a stop to that, and the remains of the corroding factory are down by the waterfront. The guides here get through so many pairs of sunglasses, shoes and backpacks a year, as anything metal on them corrodes rapidly in the sulphurous air.

Back on the boat, we had lunch, and then back at Whakatane, we journeyed onwards, through Gisborne to Takamoru Bay (1 hour further north on the East Coast) where we would be spending New Year,

The One with the Bad Smell and the Gerbil Ball

Next stop on the whistle stop tour of North Island is Rotorua. You truly can smell it before you see it, the sulphur bad egg smell hits you as you drive down the hill, but you soon get used to it, and to be honest I have been around worse.

We arrived at lunchtime on the 28th and headed straight to Te Puia, one of the geothermal sites, home to the Pohuta and Prince of Wales Feathers Geysers, several sets of mudpools, and a fantastic Mauri Cultural Show, where we saw the Haka, and the women danced with Poi (balls on a string!)

That evening we went for a Hangi - think Peruvian Pachamancha, but more sterilised! On our coach ride in we paddled the woka (coach) on to the motorway, chanting Te Woka - HEE!! at the tops of our voicces. We must have looked a right sight.

Rod was chosen as the chief of our tribe and taught to honga (press noses together - the Mauri welcome) He joined 3 other Chiefs as we waited to welcomed by the Maori tribe.

The Maori are one of the only people who welcome you with an act of intimidation to gauge whether you are friend or foe. This involves a lot of tongue poking, wide eyes and gutaral sounds. The warrior places a branch in front of a chosen chief (chief chief if you like) - Rod was chosen by the warrior and had to pick up the branch as a symbol of peace. We were then invited into the village.

We had another performance of the traditional Maori dances and songs, and then went into dinner, which had all been cooked underground on stones (just like the Pachamancha - althought this time you didn't get to watch it get dug up and it had been cooked in stainless steel trays not wrapped in leaves!)

The food was good, and then we paddled back to the hotel (not before Larry the driver led us in a rendition of "She'll be coming round the Mountain when she comes", combined with going round a mini roundabout 4 times!!!)

The next day we went to Wai-O-Tapu (amusingly known as the thermal wonderland!). This time we saw the Lady Knox Geyser (set off daily with the help of soap!), and a whole load of mud pools and thermal pools generally all named after something to do with the devil. The devils bath, ink pots, palette etc!

From here we drove back to central to Rotorua to Zorb.

Imagine if you like, a giant gerbil ball, add a bucket of cold water, 2 people and a hill, and you have zorbing. The ultimate adventure, and really makes you empathise with a pair of socks in a washing machine.

So much fun, you whoosh about uncontrollably, (you are loose inside the ball), and of course are completely soaked by the time you reach the bottom!

We then dried off and went to the Agrodome to watch a sheep show (just to make Rod feel at home!), which again was very amusing.

After a fully packed day we jumped back in the car and drove to Whakatane (Wh is pronounced F)

The One with the Golum Pose

On Boxing Day, H, Rod and I headed into Auckland to show Rod the sights.

He celebrated by jumping off the sky tower (maddness!). It's a bit like base jump, but you are attached to two wires so you have a regulated fall speed of about 86kmph, but you are harnessed so there is no free fall like a bungee. That said, it all looked pretty scary to me!

We then headed to Kelly Tarlton's Aquarium, and admired the penguins, Sting Rays, and sharks from close quarters. The eels were not Conga eels as they were not joined in a line singing (da da da da da da!)

The next day Rod and I hired a car and bade farewell to H as she is off to a family wedding in the Cook Islands. We set off south in the rain to Waitomo, where the weather didn't matter as we would be spending the afternoon underground - caving!

There were 8 of us in our party, a couple from OZ, a kiwi couple and a couple from Argentina. The latter provided me with much entertainment, as it would seem to us that the guy had booked the trip (called the Black Abyss) and the girlfriend had not known what it entailed. She was certainly not happy about being there and there were a few hasty exchanges in Spanish. Not a time for the El Pato joke, I fear!

Now in my third outing in a wetsuit this trip I can confirm that I do not look good! Especially as this time they gave me a stripey blue and pink balaclava.... everyone else had black ones and could pretend to be the milk tray man, I look like a dodgy Where's Wally!

Our first adventure was rappelling/abseiling into the cave which is shaped like an hour glass. I have only abseiled down a flat wall before so having to abseil down in a sitting position prooved a bit more difficult, plus the instructions of letting the rope glide through your hand went against everything that my body was telling me... ie "hold on as tight as you can or you will die". I wish I could say that I was smooth and graceful adn will be featuring as the next Bond Girl.... but I would be lying. It was not pretty, but I made it down!

From here we had to zip line in the dark... again, hesitation made for a bumpy start, a little more like a flying elephant than a flying fox, but who's counting?!

We then jumped, with rubber ring, into a freezing underground river (complete with eels!) - this took me two attempts until I was brave enough to jump, and then we pulled ourselves upstream along a rope to admire the glowworms in the cave.

From here we walked, swam and squeezed our way through tight gaps (stopping for hot orange and chocolate to warm us up en route) before choosing the "doom" option, of climbing out of the cave via two fast flowing waterfalls.

As you can see by the photo, several hours underground turned me into Gollum, as I emerged from the cave!!!

Awesome fun, and despite what you might think, the Argentinian girl would have got the top marks for wussiness so I still came out with my head held high!

The One with the Two Christmasses

We actually had a Christmas on the 18th December, as Huw's son Gareth and his Girlfriend Denise were over and would be flying back. We decorated the tree, made a yule log, and did the usual Christmas thing of eating and drinking too much. It even rained heavily for us so we could feel at home!

Then on the 25th itself, H, Huw and I were up at 5am... not to excitedly open presents but to go to the airport to pick up Rod!

The airport was packed (a lot of us wearing santa hats!), but we soon had him in the car, back to howick adn tucking into a full English Breakfast.

We did the presnt thing... thank you so much to those of you who sent me something over, it is much appreciated! Jessica please note that I am proudly wearing my Christmas Pudding socks in the photo!

Then it was over to Huw's Daughter Ruth's house, for more food, and a chance to play with her son Reagan's Lego, and read him his new story books!

We had turkey, but with salad and beef done on the Barbie! The traditional Christmas dessert here seems to be pavlova!

Anyway, althought I missed my traditional Christmas at home with you guys, and the carols by candlelight service, the Southern Cross and the Midnight Mass etc, Christmas was still a great one - especially as Rod was here!

Happy Christmas!!!

The One with the Pirate Ship

Raring to go, we headed off on the stray bus for our mini adventure to the Bay of Islands and Cape Reinga.

Our bus journey north in the terrible weather meant that we couldn't stop at Goat Island for Snorkelling so we visited a bird rescue centre instead. Here we met Woof Woof, a talking Tui bird (he sneezes and says he has a cold, and wishes us a Happy Christmas etc- all in a rather electronic sounding voice a bit C3P0-esque), and got to stroke a one legged Kiwi bird. The Kiwi is soft underneath but his top feathers are rather waxy like a teenager with too much gel on!

We also got to see and stroke two baby blue penguins, which were really really cute! The guy also told us of one bird he had (I think it was a Pukeko) who was crying out as though he was caught. When the guy reached the bird he found it standing on his own foot, and the Pukeko couldn't work out what was happening. The bird (when freed of his own feet) then proceeded to lecture his feet, squawking away!

We stopped at a Kauri forest, and the Hundertwasser Toilets (Gaudi-esque toilets, bright colours, and encorporating nature, and recycling) and finally arrived at the Pipi Patch in Paihia, our really cool home for the next few nights!

The next day we set off to Cape Reinga - the most northerly point of North Island. The weather was foul (we all look rather attractive in our macs?!) and we were almost blown off the edge of the most Northerly point of New Zealand!

On the way back we drove down 90 Mile Beach (Which is actually only 60 miles long!), and went in search of Tua, a shellfish which lurks in the sand. The key is top squeeze it open when it still has its tongue out (take it by surprise if you will). It looks like an ear, and you eat it there and then... doesn't taste of much! We also stopped for yummy Fish and chips on the way home!

The next day we set off early and took the ferry across to Russell where we boarded the R Tucker Thompson a big Schooner. The staff were having their Christmas party that day so were all dressed as pirates and so I hummed the theme of Pirates of the Carribbean as we set off. (Hey, it's better than "we are sailing....!")

We had a cream tea, and then had the chance to climb the rigging. I settled for crawling out to the large wooden beam at the front of the boat, (and did the Titanic arms for cheese value). We stopped in a bay, and went for a walk on a little island, and then had lunch on the boat, before setting off our cannon at a catamaran and whizzing back to Russell.

Going against the wind we were now using the engine on the boat, which gave out just off shore of Russell. We had to take the motorised inflatable to shore, and then find a place to moor which involved us scrambling up on to the jetty in a very un ladylike manner. I also got soaked due to a few stray waves. We always seem to find the adventure!

The next day we went for a tour of the Waitangi Treaty ground.

We had a fantastic tour with a Mauri guide, who gave us all the history. We saw the big Waka (canoe), and went into the meeting house or Maere. The Mauri culture is fascinating.

That afternoon we caught the Stray bus to Whangarei, where Graham met us. We spent the night camping with him and Jo about 40 minutes away. The pitch was right overlooking the beach. It couldn't have been better. We drank wine under the stars (including shooting stars and satelittes).

The next day we went for a walk to another beach, and had a mince pie under a Pohutakawa tree. It's weird to think we're just 3 days away from Christmas! Then sat and wathced some patient surfers, and boogie boarders and a couple of nesting Oyster Catchers, before catching the Stray bus back to Auckland.