Tuesday, October 31, 2006

The One with the Inca Trail - Day 3

The hard part was now over and we were heading downhill pretty much all day.

We spotted 9 of the 350 types of orchid in this national park and even had a botany lesson on how to spot an orchid (not sure I am exactly a whizz on it now though!)

At the bottom of a long line of steps we washed our hands in the spring purifying ourselves for the last part of the journey. It was now also tipping with rain, so the rainbow of ponchos were out in force as we had a lesson on Incan Sacrifice. Luckily for Jimmy it was not a practical today!

With the Sacred Valley (and more importantly the bar at the campsite) now in sight, we stormed ahead (I was lucky only to fall over once!!!), and were soon having lunch at the campsite.

We headed in the afternoon to the nearby ruins of Winaywayna meaning Forever Young.

Here we had a lesson on Incan Numerology and the Incan Cross. Be warned - I will bore you all with the symbology when I get back as it's AMAZING!

We practiced "In the Jungle" to sing to the Porters tonight. Sadly, pretty much anyone who knows me has been made to sing this song now, but I'm proud to say that our group did a good job, although maybe the Temple of the Rainbow in the Sacred Valley is not the best place to have practiced it!

After a well earned beer, we had an amazing dinner (the porters had baked a CAKE for our guides birthday!) and then a party with the porters to thank them for the amazing job they've done, and of course sing them our song. Then it was off to bed (8.30pm - I am getting old!) ready for the final challenge and the 4am start.

Monday, October 30, 2006

The One with the Inca Trail - Day 2

We were awoken at 5.45 by the porters with a cup of coffee in bed which soon made you forget your uncomfortable nights sleep.

With the camp being deconstructed around us, we had breakfast and headed up the biggest slope of the trip to Dead Womans Pass (so named because the mountain resembles a woman lying on her back) We kept aiming for her chest!

I kept up with the pack but was soon overtaken by the 4 boys. Yvonne and I kept setting ourselves goals as we zig zagged up the hill, reaching the top in elation! We all got lollies from Mauro to celebrate!

Downhill then for an hour (working different muscles again) and completely suurrounded in cloud. The group is quite evenly paced so we reached the "lunch spot" at 10.30am!

With the cloud rolling in and shroaded in rain, the group donned their ponchos and we headed up once more stopping at RUNKURAQUY the ruins of a messengers house to learn about communication across the empire.


At the top of the hill we placed a stone to thank God for the safe passage. Whilst we were re-enacting Incan rituals, I personally felt that the whole experience was just as much a pilgrimage for me, and said a prayer myself as I placed the stone. Whilst the incas worshipped Nature, it is just as easy to thank our creator, and with the scenery around us it is easy to see why.

Down some more, and past the ruins of SAYAQMARKA the home of the shamen, and a lesson about Incan medicine. We were now in the cloud forest and the trees were covered in hanging moss and lichen. We settled in for the night in the middle of a cloud!

Sunday, October 29, 2006

The One with the Inca Trail - Day 1


Another early start and a bus trip through tiny dirt roads, past chickens and donkeys, and fishermen in the Urubamba river to Km 82 where we start the walk. The snow capped mountains look imposing, but there was excitement hidden there somewhere!

The Porters were already loading our duffel bags into large hessian sacks and hauling them on their backs, before trotting off at a jog up the hillside. In comparison, my daysac contained, water, camera and a jumper, and we puffed our way up the hills!

We had a group photo at the start, had our passports stamped (to proove we walked it and didn't take the train!) and headed forth.

Our guide Mauro was amazing. Stopping to point out flora and Fauna (Cacti's you can use as needle and thread, hummingbirds, Andean mint etc) and keeping the pace slow. At our first stop we had a banana and a portable waste disposable unit (pig) ate our peels before taking a liking to Karens bag. We think he got a couple of Antimalarial pills and some bug spray. Maybe he was just being cautious!

Our first big hill of the day rewarded us a rest and a history lesson about the Incas. With several of these every day we were soon piecing together the Iconography, History and Culture of the incas, and it all built to the anticipation of the final day!

Our first meal (lunch) and a taster of what was to come. Tent, fully laid tables, and 3 course meals (Pikey, Carys and Katie - how could you fail to mention how good the food was on the trail?)

As we left the thunder started to roll. You can really appreciate how the incas felt the Gods were in the Mountains and were unhappy. We did offer to sacrifice Jimmy (as the youngest and blondest) but he politely declined! Spoilsport!

The last stretch of the first day was hard. Up hill and with large steps. But the view at the end was worth it - as was the hot chocolate and popcorn waiting for us at camp. This camping lark is easy.

It's amazing how quickly the body can make you forget pain from a moment earlier. Warm and full we settled into the tents listening to the stupid dog barking at his own echo across the valley and the distant rumble of thunder. Ready for whatever tomorrow could throw at us.

Saturday, October 28, 2006

The One with the Unpronouncable Town Name

On the way to the Inca Trail and had our first taster of Inca Ruins. We went to the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo (double ll is a y - it's all a bit welsh!)

Pisac was really beautiful. Lots of terraced hills, and made all the more mystical by a loan Andean flute player on the hill side. The Accoustics were so good you could hear him from everywhere.

Apparantly the town of Pisac was built in the shape of a Llama, I guess if you tip your head to one side and squint....

Jimmy (being white as white) was asked by several locals to pose for photos with them. We tried to charge them 1 soles like they do us but to no avail!

From here to our base for the night - Ollantaytambo. Another set of ruins and another chance for a group photo. Here the little children usually posing for photos were intrigued by our history lesson and muscled to the front of our group to peer upwards at the pictures (really cute!)

There was a celebration in Ollantaytambo with a fiesta in the square and an apparantely really famous Peruvian Singer. Personally I thought she was shocking, and the song seemed to go on forever.

Nerves were setting in for the trek ahead!

Friday, October 27, 2006

Thursday, October 26, 2006

The One with Juanita and the Condor Watch!


5am wake up call - mmmm!

We travelled along the Colca River to the start of the Colca Canyon to watch the Condors rising on the Morning Thermals.

They had not been given the same time guide as us, so we spent a good 45 minutes spotting llama shaped rocks and dragons on the hillside formed by the clouds.

Finally the condors decided to show, and with hundreds of pairs of binoculars and cameras on them they performed like stars, circling up and around and swooping below with brilliant flashes of their black and white wings.

We were very lucky to see one perched on a ledge for some time, and with a whole group of people willing him to, he spread his wings and took off, with the cameras snapping in appreciation!

On the way back to Arequipa we stopped at Moca where I had my photo taken with Diana the Llama - she even smiled for the camera!

Back at Arequipa a bit earlier than expected, Jimmy, H and I went to the Juanita Museum to see Juanita the Ice Maiden of Ampato ( Neil - it looks like Ice Maidens don't stop at the ticket office!)

This was one thing from my A Level History that I had taken in! Juanita was an incan Sacrifice to the Ampato mountain, as due to El Nino, and the following weather conditions, the Incans thought their mountain God was angry with them. Anyway... Juanita walked from Cusco, up the 21,000ft mountain, where she was sedated with a drink called chicha and then bashed over the head with a mace. Because of the following snow, her mummy has been perfectly preserved (and without embalming like the Egyptians) - She still has her hair, and you can se all the details even down to her fingernails. The museum was fascinating and filled in a lots of missing bits of information from the previous few days. They even showed us the DVD that I had watched in A Level lessons 8 years earlier!!!

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

The One with the Alapaca

After a fairly decent nights sleep for a night on a bus, we arrived in Arequipa - The White City. A pretty little colonial town nestled amongst surrounding volcanos and mountains. We had a free day so just went and explored.

The next day we were up and off to Chivay. The route took us through some very high roads so we have been sucking coca candy as they help with the altitude (and H even munched some of the leaves - her before and after photos tell it all!) Personally I quite like the coca leaves as tea!
We stopped on route in the National reserve and saw some Vicunas - 1 of the 4 South American Camelids. They are so cool!

In Chivay, the locals dress in the traditional costume. We passed them farming on the terraces, with the women in their voluminous skirts and with spades tied to their backs where you could easily imagine a baby to be. Donkeys laden with straw wander down the dirt track road, and we often had to stop the minibus for a few stubborn sheep.

The landscape was amazing, and our hotel in Coporaque looked out over it. We went for a hike (if this is preparation for the Inca Trail then i'm in trouble - I was puffing with every step. This altitude stuff is serious business!)

Our hard work was rewarded, however, with a trip to the local thermal baths, where we sat in the outside pool, Pisco sour in hand, to relax after yet another packed day.

Our hotel also had a pet alapaca - who thought he was a dog! he was very tame, but rather like a sheep, in that he would eat anything. I can imagine the Peruvian version of Wallace and Gromit and the Close Shave now! We'll call him Al eh? come on Al!

Monday, October 23, 2006

The One with the Sick Bags

Thankfully, my iron lined stomach managed to hold up to the bumpy flight in the 6 seater plane over the Nazca Lines - others on my flight were unfortunately not so lucky.

Having never been in such a small plane, I was really excited - although I must admit I was little worried that the pilot kept the window open while we were taxi-ing on the runway! Soon we were in the air, and bouncing along the turbulence towards the famous Nazca Lines.

The pilot had given us a map of which route we would see the various characters. He would circle the plane first to the right and then to the left about the shape with the wing pointing it out and shout out what was (over and over again). " Left... Monkey monkey monkey monkey!"

More worryingly, he would turn to face us, holding the map in both hands and then point to where we were headed. Personally, I can follow a map adn would ahve preferred it if he'd kept his hands ont he wheel and his eyes out front!

We saw several shapes including the dog, astronaut, monkey, hummingbird, and whale to name but a few. No one knows what they are really for but it has been suggested that they are a star linked agricultural map.

Finally we landed and exited the plane quickly, with two of the party leaving with party bags they hadn't really come for!!! H was on a different plane but she got a party bag too!

Our hotel was great so we spent the rest of the day lazing by the pool before catching the night bus to Arequipa!

Sunday, October 22, 2006

The One with the Extreme Exfoliation!

Absolutely my best day so far since leaving home. I didn´t think i´d beat the canyons, and yet was blown away by Yosemite, and then today. FUN FUN FUN!

We headed at stupid o´clock to Paracas - a small village where you catch the boat to the Ballestas Islands. The small speed boat whipped over the quiet waters of the bay towards the sea, and from here we bounced along the water, stopping to look at a engraving in the hill of a candelabra, before heading towards the Islands themselves.

The water was covered with sea birds which took flight as we approached, over head were swarms of Comorants and Boobies, with some flying high above us and others seemingly hovering over the surface of the water with their wing tips skirting dangerously close to the waves.

Every now and then a bird would drop from the sky and peform the perfect dive bomb, disappearing suddenly from view and appearing moments later straight back into flight.

As we neared the rocks, more birds could be seen (and their excrement smelt). I pity the poor souls whose job it is once every five years to shovel sacks of it for fertaliser. It is apparently a big seller in Peru!

But the smell was soon put to one side at the sight of Pelicans, Penguins, the afore mentioned Comorants and Boobies and Inca Terns nestling all over the island. One Pelican flew overhead with a beak full of nesting materials. (And yes Dad, I did recite the poem!)

Other residents include sealions, who were arguing over rock positions, or basking despite the sky being overcast. In one cove every wave brought forth more sealions to shore, as though they were pebbles being washed up on the beach. We even saw some babies.

As the boat headed back to Paracas, if it hadn´t have been for the land it would have been hard to tell were the sea ended and the sky began. We were skirting over the glassy water, and I could have sworn the white clouds above us looked like waves. The water was broken only by the stream lined wake of the boat and the odd head of a playful sealion or penguin.

We headed to a Winery at lunchtime in Ica and learnt how to make Pisco. We also had a few tasters which, before lunch, on a now gloriously hot day, did make me feel slightly tipsy (it was like having three shots of tequilla on an empty stomach and then getting back on the bus). Thankfully, now in South America, Air Con is determined on whether the window is open or shut, so I am no longer freezing on every journey!

Lastly we headed to Huacachina. A small village built around an oasis. Daphne excluded, I hope I am not the only one who didn´t realise that there was a desert similar in looks to the Sahara in Peru.

The oasis was just as you´d imagine. A pool surrounded by palm trees! But the best was yet to come.

SAND BUGGIES and SAND BOARDING!!!!!!!

We drove over the dunes in a cage on 4 wheel drive, and screamed with exhilaration as it skimmed the sand slopes at terrifying speeds considering their gradient. At the top we teetered down the other side leaving our stomachs way behind us and whooping in delight. Better than any rollercoaster I had ever been on.

If that was not dare devil enough we lay on a snow board which had been greased underneath and sped down the steep slopes on our stomachs. Smiling causes sand to get in your mouth, but even that didn´t seem to matter.

As I said, extreme exfoliation. Only meant for tough girls - like exfoliating with an electric Sander. But MUCH MORE FUN!

Saturday, October 21, 2006

The One with the Earthquake

You read it right.

Sadly... I slept through it. 6am yesterday a tremor rocked Lima, leaving all other hotel residents wondering what the hell was going on and why the room and light fixtures were shaking. Helen and I were snoring our heads off and remained completely oblivious to the whole affair. Doh!

Just spent a day in Lima. Went on a city tour yesterday and on the corner of the street (by a dog wearing a hat and glasses!) we ran into Milly! Hoorah! Had a great dinner with her last night and will catch up with her again in Cuzco.

The tour took us to a pre incan ruin (which I can't pronounce let alone spell) the Love Park by the sea, based on Parc Guell in Barcelona, and the main heart of Lima with its Cathedral, City Hall and Government building.

We also went to the church of San Francisco and the Catacoombs. A little peruvian girl seemed amazed at one of our groups digital camera (she was sooo cute)

In the Catacoombs were lots of bones - mainly femurs and skulls - all neatly arranged with teh sign DO NOT TOUCH above them. What kind of sick tourists come here. I wouldn't touch them if you paid me to. ' My sister went to Lima and all I got was this lousy femur!' I can see the t-shirts now!

Had our first Pisco Sour - I'm hoping they will grow on me. We're off to Pisco now. I am very excited about this trip!